What Is Resawing on a Band Saw? A Plain-English Guide

What resawing means

Resawing means slicing a board along its thickness, parallel to the faces, so one thick piece becomes two or more thinner ones. Think of splitting a thick plank like a sandwich roll. The cut runs through the width of the board, which is why the blade has to cut through several inches of wood at once.

That is different from ordinary ripping, where the board lies flat on the table and the blade cuts through only its thickness. In resawing, the board stands on its narrow edge against a fence. The blade is buried in a tall cut, and every tooth has to carry sawdust out of it.

This is why resawing is often called the hardest job you can give a band saw. A tall cut puts heavy load on the blade, and the sawdust has nowhere to go but out through the tooth gullets.

Why woodworkers resaw

Resawing lets you turn one piece of lumber into several useful pieces. It is a way to get more from a board you already have, and to make parts that are hard to buy.

• Veneer: thin slices for covering panels or adding decorative faces.
• Bookmatched panels: one board opened like a book so the two halves mirror each other in grain.
• Thinner stock: drawer sides, box parts and other pieces cut from thick lumber.
• Wider boards: a thick board split so the pieces can be glued back edge to edge for a larger surface.
• Using rough or oddly sized lumber: turning a thick, uneven board into usable parts.

What your saw and blade need

Two things limit resawing: how tall your saw can cut, and how well the blade can handle the cut. Check the saw's maximum cutting height in your manual first. A saw with a riser block can take taller stock, and it also needs a longer blade.

The blade matters most. Our best band saw blade for resawing page puts the main points on one spec sheet: go wide for stiffness, choose coarse teeth with deep gullets to clear sawdust, and pick hardened or carbide teeth that stay sharp in hardwood. The widest blade your saw can tension is usually the right starting point, often 1/2 in to 3/4 in.

Length must match your saw exactly. A 93-1/2 in blade fits many 14 in saws, while 111 in, 116 in and 131-1/2 in blades suit larger saws or saws with risers. Always check your manual before buying.

Here is how a few blades from that page compare for this job, based on published specifications:

Setting up and making the cut

A good setup does more for a straight resaw cut than any trick during the cut itself. Take your time with it, because small errors show up as a wandering line in the middle of the board.

Start with a board that is flat on one face and square on one edge. Those two surfaces ride on the table and fence, so a warped board will pinch the blade. Kiln-dried wood is the safer choice, and the Timber Wolf VPC blades on our page are not meant for wet wood or logs unless dried to 10 percent.

• Unplug the saw, then fit a sharp blade of the correct length and tension it as your manual describes.
• Adjust the guides and thrust bearing so they support the blade without pinching it.
• Set the upper guide just above the board, so only a small length of blade is exposed.
• Set the fence for the thickness you want, leaving a little extra to clean up later.
• Test the setup on a scrap piece and check the cut for drift before using good lumber.
• Feed slowly and steadily, keeping the board tight against the fence with even pressure.

Fixing common resawing problems

Drift is the most common complaint. The blade leaves the line and the cut slopes to one side. A dull blade, a blade that is too narrow, loose tension and poorly set guides are all usual causes. Sharp teeth track straighter, which is one reason carbide and hardened teeth are popular for this job.

Burn marks and slow progress usually mean the teeth are not biting. Pushing too slowly can make teeth rub instead of cut, and a dull blade or a fine tooth pattern that clogs with sawdust will do the same. A coarse blade with deep gullets tends to run cooler in tall cuts.

If the two halves come out with ridges or an uneven thickness, check for a pinched blade, a fence that is not square to the table, or a board that moved as it was cut. Slow down and let the blade do the work instead of forcing the board.

If you are shopping for a saw for this work, our best band saw for home workshop comparison can help you check cutting height and blade size before you buy.

Safety notes

A tall cut means a lot of exposed blade, so treat resawing with care. Unplug the saw before changing blades or adjusting guides, and never reach behind the blade while it runs.

Wear eye protection, because chips and dust fly off the blade. Wear hearing protection too, since a band saw cutting thick hardwood can be loud, and wear a dust mask or use dust collection for fine sawdust.

Keep your hands out of the line of the cut. Use a push stick or push block to finish the pass, and keep the upper guide as low as the stock allows. Stand to the side and support long boards at the outfeed end so they do not tip. Never resaw round logs or unstable pieces without a jig that holds them firmly.

Frequently asked questions

Is resawing the same as ripping?

They are similar, but not the same. Ripping cuts along the grain through the thickness of a flat board. Resawing cuts along the grain through the width of a board standing on edge, so the cut is much taller.

Can a small 14 in band saw resaw?

Often yes, within its cutting height. Use a sharp, wide, coarse blade that your saw can tension, and keep expectations realistic for very tall or dense stock.

Can I use a metal-cutting blade for resawing?

No. Metal blades have a different tooth design and are meant for different saws and materials. See our best band saw blades for metal page for those jobs.

Why does resawing leave the board slightly thicker than planned?

Cuts rarely come out perfectly flat. Leave a little extra thickness so you can plane or sand the sawn faces smooth to final size.