How to Router Door Hinges Into a Door and Frame

What you need before you start

A hinge mortise is a shallow recess that lets the hinge leaf sit flush with the wood. Routing it takes minutes once the setup is right, and it leaves cleaner edges than chiseling alone.

One quick note on the word router. This guide covers the woodworking tool that spins a cutting bit. If you landed here while shopping for home networking gear, our best router page compares WiFi models instead.

• A trim router or small plunge router with a collet that holds your bit
• A hinge mortising template (adjustable or fixed size) with a matching guide bushing or bearing
• A straight bit, sized to your template
• The hinges you plan to install, so you can measure them
• A pencil, a combination square, and a tape measure
• Clamps, a sharp chisel, and a mallet
• Safety glasses, hearing protection, and a dust mask

Choose the right router bit

The answer to what size router bit for door hinges depends on your template. Most templates use a straight bit with a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch cutting diameter, paired with a guide bushing that rides along the template edge. A template kit will list the exact bit and bushing combination it needs, so follow that first.

A straight bit cuts a flat-bottomed recess, which is what you want. A bit with a bearing on the shank can also work if your template is designed for it. Keep the bit sharp. A dull bit burns the wood and tears the grain, especially on softwood doors.

Mark the hinge locations

Lay out the hinges on the door edge first, then transfer those marks to the jamb. A common layout puts the top hinge about 7 inches down from the top of the door and the bottom hinge about 11 inches up from the floor end. A middle hinge sits halfway between them. Many builders add a third hinge on heavy or solid-core doors.

Next, decide on the setback. This is the distance from the face of the door to the edge of the hinge leaf. A setback of about 1/4 inch works for many hinges, because it keeps the knuckle clear of the frame when the door swings. Use the same setback on the door and the jamb so both leaves line up.

Trace around the hinge leaf with a sharp pencil. This gives you a reference outline to check the template against before you cut.

How to router hinges into the door

Stand the door on edge and clamp it securely, or lay it on a stable bench with the edge facing up. Make sure the edge you are cutting is flat and clean.

Set your cutting depth to match one hinge leaf. Place a leaf next to the bit and adjust until the bit height equals the leaf thickness. Test on a scrap piece of the same wood. The leaf should sit flush or a hair below the surface, never above it.

• Clamp the template over your pencil marks so the opening matches the hinge outline.
• Unplug the router, install the bit and bushing, and set the depth.
• Plug in, hold the router base flat on the template, and start the motor before the bit touches the wood.
• Plunge slowly, then move left to right in light passes, keeping the bushing against the template.
• Clear the chips, lift the router while it is still spinning, and let the bit stop fully before you set it down.
• Test fit the hinge and adjust depth if needed.

How to router hinges on the door frame and jamb

Routing the jamb follows the same steps as the door, but the work is harder to hold. If the frame is already installed, clamp the template firmly and keep the router base fully supported. If you can, cut the jamb mortises before you hang the frame, when it is lying flat on a bench.

Use your door marks to measure down from the head jamb so both sets of mortises match. Double-check the distances before cutting, since a mismatch will make the door bind or leave uneven gaps.

Router bits leave rounded corners. If your hinges have square corners, tap a sharp chisel into each corner to square it. Hinges with rounded corners, often called radius hinges, fit the routed shape with no extra work. Check which type you own before cutting.

Safety and common mistakes

Routers are loud and throw chips fast. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection every time, and a dust mask when cutting. Unplug the router before changing bits or adjusting depth. Keep both hands on the tool and clamp the work so it cannot shift. If you use a corded router, keep the cord clear of the bit path.

Most problems come from a few simple errors. Cutting too deep makes the hinge sit below the wood and creates a gap on the other side. Cutting too shallow makes the door rub against the frame. Skipping a scrap test is the most common cause of both.

If the hinge sits slightly proud, deepen the cut with a chisel, or place a thin shim under the hinge if it sits slightly low. Fix small errors this way instead of making a new pass with the router.

Frequently asked questions

Can I router hinges without a template?

Yes, but it is harder. You can clamp straight boards as a guide, or score the outline with a knife and clear the waste with a chisel. A template gives more repeatable results.

Should the router be a plunge or fixed base?

Either works. A plunge base makes it easier to lower the bit into the wood safely. A fixed base trim router is lighter and easier to handle on a narrow door edge.

Do I cut the door or the jamb first?

Either order works. Many people cut the door first, then measure from the door to mark the jamb so the gaps stay even.

What if I have only a basic router and no bushing?

A bearing-guided bit that rides a straight template edge can substitute. If neither is possible, rout the center of the mortise with free hand light passes and finish the edges with a chisel. If you meant a WiFi device, see our best router comparison.