How to Make a Homemade Gear Puller (and When to Buy One Instead)

Is a homemade puller right for your job?

A homemade puller does the same basic thing as a store-bought screw puller. Two or more legs hook behind a part, and a center bolt pushes against the shaft while you turn it. The bolt's threads turn your wrench effort into a steady straight pull.

The catch is that nobody has rated your build. A bought puller lists a capacity in tons. Yours has only the strength of the steel you used and the quality of your welds or threads. That makes it a fit for light, free-moving parts and a poor fit for anything stuck hard.

Use this quick comparison to decide.

Materials and tools you need

Gather everything before you start. The exact sizes depend on the part you are pulling, so measure it first. Note the shaft diameter, the width of the part, and how far the back edge sits from the end of the shaft.

• Flat steel bar for the crossbar, thick enough that you can't flex it by hand
• Two more lengths of bar, or angle stock, for the legs
• One long high-strength bolt for the center forcing screw, with a matching nut
• Two shorter bolts and nuts to join the legs to the crossbar
• A drill and bits, plus a tap that matches your center bolt if you want threads in the bar instead of a nut
• A hacksaw or angle grinder, a file, and a vise
• A welder, only if you have the skill and the right gear; bolted joints work fine without one
• Grease or penetrating oil, a center punch, and a tape measure

Step-by-step build

This design uses a flat crossbar with a center nut, and two legs that hang down on each side. It is simple enough to make with basic shop tools.

• Measure your part. Write down the outside width you need the legs to clear, and the depth the hooks must reach behind the part.
• Cut the crossbar longer than that width so the leg bolts sit outside the part. Mark the center and punch it.
• Drill the center hole just large enough for your forcing bolt to pass through, or drill and tap it if you want threads in the bar. Otherwise, center a nut over the hole and weld or clamp it square.
• Drill a hole near each end of the crossbar for the leg bolts. Better still, drill a few holes along the bar so you can change the spread.
• Cut the two legs to the same length. File one end of each into a thin hook that can slip behind the part without chewing into the shaft.
• Bolt the legs to the crossbar. The hooks should face inward for an outside pull on a part such as a pulley.
• Thread the forcing bolt through the center. Grind or file the tip flat so it presses evenly on the end of the shaft, or put a small steel disc between them.
• Test fit with no load. Both hooks should sit behind the part at the same depth, and the center bolt should line up with the shaft.

Using it safely

A puller stores a lot of force. If a leg slips or a bolt gives way, the tool can fly off and hit you. Treat the first few turns of the wrench with respect, and never build one and then hurry the job.

• Wear safety glasses or a face shield. Metal chips and snapped parts can travel fast.
• Keep your face and hands out of line with the legs while you turn the bolt.
• Tighten in small steps and stop if you see the crossbar bending or a hook opening up.
• Do not heat a part with a torch near fuel lines, grease or paint without checking for fire risks first. Keep an extinguisher close.
• Wear gloves when handling freshly cut or welded steel, and let it cool before touching it.
• Use a bench vise or stand that holds the work still, so nothing can shift under load.

Tips for a smoother pull

Squareness matters more than force. If the legs are uneven, the part will cock on the shaft and bind. Check that both hooks sit at the same depth before each pull.

Add a little penetrating oil where the part meets the shaft, and give it time to soak in. A light tap on the end of the forcing bolt with a hammer can break rust loose, but stop if the tool starts to shift.

Grease the forcing bolt threads. This lowers friction and lets you feel when the part begins to move. If it won't budge after a steady, firm effort, don't keep adding force with a longer wrench. That is the point to switch tools.

When to buy a puller instead

If the part is stuck, large, or valuable, a rated tool is the better choice. Our best gear puller comparison lists capacity, spread and reach for each model, so you can match a tool to your part before you start.

For small parts, the DURATECH 3-jaw puller is rated 3 ton, with a 3 in max spread and a 3.56 in max reach. If you want several sizes in one kit, the Orion Motor Tech set has four pullers with max spreads of 3, 4, 6 and 8 in, and reversible jaws for inside or outside pulls.

For heavy, stuck parts, the VEVOR hydraulic pullers are rated 15 ton with a 12 in max spread. You can see how these models stack up on our gear puller comparison page, including weight and jaw style, to decide whether the build is worth your time.

Frequently asked questions

What bolt should I use for the center screw?

Choose a long, high-strength bolt with a fine, clean thread. Avoid soft hardware-store bolts that can stretch or snap. Check that it is straight before you use it.

Can I weld the legs to the crossbar?

You can, but bolted legs are easier to adjust and replace. Weld only if you are skilled, and make sure the joint is full and clean, since a weak weld can fail under load.

Why does my part keep tilting as I turn the bolt?

The hooks are likely sitting at different depths, or one leg is bending. Back off, reset both hooks evenly, and make sure the forcing bolt is centered on the shaft.

Should I use two legs or three?

Three legs spread force more evenly, which helps on round parts. Two legs are simpler to build and fit tight spaces, but they need to sit directly opposite each other.