Hacksaw vs Sawzall, Jigsaw and Other Saws: Which One to Use

The quick comparison

Saws differ in three ways: how they are powered, how thick the blade is, and how it is held. Those traits decide whether a saw makes a neat cut or a fast, rough one. The table below sums up the common choices.

A hacksaw is a hand tool with a thin blade stretched tight in a frame. That tension keeps the cut straight and lets the fine teeth work on metal. Power saws trade that control for speed.

Hacksaw vs Sawzall (reciprocating saw)

Sawzall is a brand name that many people use for any reciprocating saw. The blade pushes and pulls in a straight line, driven by a motor. It cuts fast, and it can reach into places a larger saw cannot. It is the usual choice for tearing out old pipe, nails and framing.

A hacksaw is slower but far quieter and more precise. You feel the cut, you can start it gently, and you leave a cleaner edge. For a single bolt, a short length of tubing or a threaded rod, a hacksaw is often quicker than finding a power cord and a blade.

Compact cordless reciprocating saws sometimes get a separate nickname, such as Hackzall. They are lighter and easier to handle than a full-size model, though they give up some power. The core trade stays the same: a motor gives you speed, and a hand frame gives you control.

Hacksaw vs jigsaw

A jigsaw has a narrow blade that moves up and down through a flat base plate. It is made for curves, circles and cutouts. With the right blade it can cut thin metal, but the narrow blade tends to bend in thicker stock and leaves a rougher edge on metal.

A hacksaw cuts only straight lines, but the tensioned blade stays true. If you are cutting a round bar, a pipe or a bolt, the hacksaw wins. If you are cutting a sink opening or a curved shelf, the jigsaw wins.

Jigsaws and reciprocating saws both have fast-moving blades, so clamp the work first and keep your free hand well away from the cutting line.

Hacksaw vs handsaw, coping saw and bow saw

These three are hand saws mainly meant for wood. A standard handsaw has a wide blade and coarse teeth for straight cuts across boards. A coping saw uses a thin blade held in a deep, narrow frame to follow tight curves, such as when fitting trim. A bow saw has a large open frame and a coarse blade for green branches and logs.

A hacksaw differs because its teeth are fine and made for metal. Using a wood saw on metal ruins the blade, and using a hacksaw on large timber is slow and clogs the teeth. The folding pruning saw on our best hacksaw page shows how a hybrid can work. It ships with three 7.5 in blades, and only the 18 TPI blade is meant for thin metal. The other two suit wood and plastic.

Keep the real hacksaw for metal and plastic pipe, and reach for the wood saws when the material is lumber or branches.

How to choose

Start with the material, then think about the finish and the space you have. Here is a simple way to decide:

• Metal pipe, rod, bolts or thin tubing: use a hacksaw.
• Tearing out old pipe, nails or framing quickly: use a reciprocating saw.
• Curves or cutouts in sheet material: use a jigsaw.
• Straight cuts in boards: use a handsaw.
• Tight curves in trim: use a coping saw.
• Branches and logs: use a bow saw.

Picking a hacksaw

If a hacksaw is the right tool, check the spec sheet before you buy. Blade length, TPI and blade material matter most. On our best hacksaw comparison, the full-size frames use a 12 in blade at 24 TPI in bi-metal, and several list a 4 in cutting depth. Bi-metal pairs a hard cutting edge with a flexible body, which helps the blade resist breaking.

Higher TPI suits thin metal and tubing, because several teeth stay in contact with the work. Lower TPI clears chips faster in thicker or softer material.

For tight spaces, a compact frame helps. The Klein Tools compact model has a 10 in blade and a tool-free lever for blade changes, and it weighs 0.5 lb. The KATA mini hacksaw is also 10 in, includes three bi-metal 24 TPI blades and weighs 0.3 lb. A full 12 in frame gives longer strokes but needs more room.

Safety and technique

Clamp the work in a vise or a firm clamp before you cut. A moving piece makes the blade bind and snap. Wear safety glasses, because broken blade pieces and metal chips can fly. Gloves protect your knuckles, but keep them snug so they do not catch.

With a power saw, add hearing protection, and unplug the saw or remove the battery before changing blades. Keep both hands away from the blade path, and never cut into a wall until you know what is behind it, since pipes and wires can hide there.

For a hacksaw, use steady, full-length strokes. Put light pressure on the push stroke and ease off on the return. Deburr the cut end with a file, because fresh cuts on metal are sharp.

Frequently asked questions

Which way should hacksaw teeth point?

Teeth point away from the handle, so the blade cuts on the forward push stroke. Tension the blade after you fit it.

Can a hacksaw cut wood?

It can cut small pieces of wood or plastic, but the fine teeth clog and the cut is slow. A handsaw or bow saw is a better fit.

Can a jigsaw cut metal?

Yes, with a blade made for metal and a slow speed, usually in thin sheet. For pipe or bar, a hacksaw or reciprocating saw is easier to control.

Why do hacksaw blades break?

Common causes are a loose blade, a work piece that is not clamped, too much pressure and twisting the saw mid-cut. Check tension and keep the frame straight.