Which Way Do Bandsaw Blade Teeth Face? How to Install a Blade

The short rule for tooth direction

The cutting edge always has to move into the material. On an upright bandsaw, the blade runs downward at the front, where you cut. That means the teeth at the cutting zone should point down toward the table, and the tips should lean toward the front of the saw, which is the side you stand on.

A quick way to check is to run a fingertip lightly along the blade, but only with the saw unplugged and with the blade stopped. The teeth should feel like they catch and hook as your finger slides downward, not as it slides upward. Even easier, look at the blade from the side. The tooth tips should angle down and toward you.

Horizontal shop saws and portable band saws follow the same idea but look different. The blade travels in one direction at the cut, and the teeth must point the way it moves. If your saw has a direction arrow on the guard or the blade, follow it, and check your manual if the layout is not obvious.

Why a blade ends up backward

A new blade often arrives coiled in loops, and a coil can flip when you unfold it. The blade looks fine, fits the wheels, and tracks normally. The only clue is that the teeth point the wrong way.

This is common and harmless as long as you catch it before cutting. Running a backward blade just wastes time and can dull the teeth quickly, so check direction before you tension the blade and close the guards.

How to flip a backward blade

A bandsaw blade is a continuous loop of steel, so you can turn it inside out. When you do, the teeth reverse direction. You do not need any tools for this, but you do need to be careful with the sharp edge.

Wear cut-resistant gloves and eye protection for this job. A blade can spring open suddenly when you release it, and the teeth can cut skin or cause an eye injury.

• Unplug the saw, or remove the battery on a cordless model.
• Take the blade off the saw and hold it in front of you at arm's length.
• Grip the loop with your hands apart, then slowly twist so the blade turns inside out, like turning a sleeve inside out.
• Hold it up and check the teeth again. They should now point the way described in the manual.
• Hang it on the wheels and recheck direction before you add tension.

How to install the blade, step by step

Always start with the saw disconnected from power. Many bandsaw injuries come from a machine that was not fully unplugged during a blade change.

Follow this order and the blade will seat and track more easily.

• Unplug the saw and open the wheel covers or guards.
• Release the tension using the saw's tension knob or lever, then slip the old blade out of the guides and off the wheels.
• Fit the new blade over both wheels, teeth pointing the correct way, with the back of the blade resting near the wheel flange.
• Slide the blade between the guide blocks or rollers, so the teeth sit just ahead of the guides.
• Add tension following the saw's guide. Thin blades need less than wide blades.
• Spin the wheel by hand a few turns and watch where the blade rides on the wheel. Adjust tracking until it stays centered.
• Set the guides and thrust bearing close to the blade, but not pinching it.
• Close all covers, plug in the saw, and let it run for a few seconds while you stand to the side.

Match the blade to your saw before you install

Direction is only half the job. A blade that is the wrong length will not tension properly, and a wrong width may not fit the guides. Check the length printed on your old blade or in your manual.

Here are some examples from the specifications we compare. They show how much length and width vary between saw types. For a fuller comparison, see our page on the best band saw blades for metal.

Choosing teeth and speed for metal

If you cut metal, tooth count matters as much as direction. A good rule is to keep at least three teeth in the material at all times. Finer teeth suit thin tube and sheet, while coarser teeth suit thick solid stock.

Bi-metal blades with M42 cobalt teeth are made for this work. For example, the Imachinist 93-1/2 in blade lists a recommended speed of 100 FPM to 300 FPM for ferrous metals. Running faster than that tends to overheat the teeth.

When you are ready to pick a replacement, our metal blade comparison lays out lengths, tooth counts and materials side by side.

How to wrap a blade for storage

If you want to store a spare blade, you can fold it into three smaller loops. This keeps the teeth from catching on things and makes a flat bundle.

Wear gloves and eye protection, and do this in an open space. A blade can spring out as you fold it, so keep your face and legs clear.

• Hold the blade vertically with one hand, teeth facing away from your body.
• Place your other hand on the opposite side and push the loop down to the floor with your foot on the bottom edge, if you need the extra grip.
• Twist your hands in opposite directions so the loop folds over itself.
• Let it settle into three coils and hold them together, then secure with a tie or tape.

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell the teeth are backward without touching the blade?

View the blade from the side while it is on the saw. The tips should lean down and toward the front at the cutting zone. If they lean up or away from you, the blade is backward.

What happens if I run a bandsaw blade backward?

It will cut slowly or not at all, the teeth wear faster, and the work can feel like it is lifting off the table. Stop the saw, unplug it, and flip the blade.

Does flipping the blade damage it?

No. Turning a blade inside out does not harm it as long as you do it gently and do not kink the steel.

Should the blade be tight right away?

Add tension in small steps, spin the wheel by hand, and check tracking after each adjustment. Too much tension strains the blade and wheels.