What Nails Should You Use in a Nail Gun for a Fence?

The short version by fence part

Nail length depends on what you are joining. A good rule is that the nail should pass fully through the first board and bite well into the second. Thin pickets need less length than rails and posts, which need deep reach into thick wood.

The lengths below are general rules of thumb, not a standard. Always check the fence material, local building rules and what your nailer can accept.

Pick the right nail length

For pickets, the nail needs to go through the picket and well into the rail behind it. A nail that is too short can pull out as the wood dries and moves. A nail that is far too long can poke through the back of the rail, which is a snag hazard and looks sloppy.

For rails and posts, you want more reach. Three inches is a common starting point, and 3.5 in gives extra grip in thick or dense lumber. If you are fastening into a 4x4 post, short nails will not hold well.

Measure your lumber before you buy. Add the thickness of the board you are nailing through to the depth you want in the second board, then round to the nearest nail size that fits your tool.

Choose a shank, coating and gauge that last outdoors

A fence lives outside, so the nail has to resist rust. Hot-dipped galvanized nails have a thick zinc coating and are a common choice for outdoor wood. Stainless steel nails resist corrosion even better and are often used with woods that react to metal, such as cedar. Plain bright nails will rust and can leave dark streaks.

Shank type matters too. Ring shank nails have small ridges that grip the wood fibers and resist backing out as boards swell and shrink. Smooth shank nails drive easily but pull out more readily. For fence boards, ring shank is usually the better pick.

• Coating: hot-dipped galvanized or stainless for outdoor use.
• Shank: ring shank for better holding power.
• Gauge: thicker framing or siding nails for rails and posts, thinner nails only for light trim.
• Head: full round or clipped head are both common, but check your local rules and your nailer's requirements.

Match the nails to the nailer

The nail you want is only useful if your tool can drive it. Check the nail length range, the collation style and the angle before you buy a box. Framing nails come in strips with plastic or paper collation at set angles, while coil nails come in a roll at a 15 or 16 degree angle. Mixing them up will cause jams or simply will not load.

The data on our best nail gun for fencing page shows how much the range varies. The Metabo HPT NR90AES1 framing nailer accepts 2 in up to 3.5 in plastic collated nails and holds 64. The Metabo HPT NV75A5 coil nailer takes 1.75 in to 3 in coil nails and weighs 5.7 lb. The meite CN80B takes 2 in to 3.25 in nails and holds 300, but weighs 8.82 lb.

At the lighter end, the Metabo HPT NV65AH2 coil siding nailer takes 1.5 in to 2.5 in nails, holds 300 and weighs 4.8 lb. That range suits pickets but stops short of the longest rail nails. Brad nailers on the page top out at 2.125 in or less, and the 16 gauge finish nailer stops at 2.5 in. They are built for trim, so they are a poor match for structural fence connections.

Set up and drive nails safely

Nail guns can fire a nail through a board and into your hand or leg. Treat the tool as you would any loaded machine.

1. Wear safety glasses or goggles rated for impact, and use hearing protection, since pneumatic nailers are loud.

2. Disconnect the air hose before you clear a jam, load nails or leave the tool unattended.

3. Keep your free hand well away from the nose and the path of the nail.

4. Never point the tool at anyone, and never defeat the safety contact tip.

5. Stay under the maximum pressure on your tool. The pneumatic tools in our data list a 120 psi maximum.

6. Use a stable ladder or work platform for taller fences, and avoid reaching to the side while holding a loaded nailer.

Test before you nail the whole fence

Fence lumber can be wet, dry, soft or dense, and that changes how deep a nail sits. Drive a few test nails into scrap from your actual boards before you start. Adjust the depth control until the heads sit flush or just below the surface without tearing the wood.

Tool-free depth adjustment makes this faster. Our data lists it for the framing and coil siding models on the page. Not every model lists it, so confirm on the spec sheet.

Nail near the board ends carefully. Driving too close to the edge can split pickets, especially in dry wood. Stagger or angle nails slightly if you see splitting. If you plan to run a long fence, a larger magazine means fewer reloads, but it also tends to add weight, so balance capacity against how long you will hold the tool.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a brad nailer for fence pickets?

Only for very light panels or decorative work. Brad nails are thin and hold less, and brad nailers in our data top out at 2.125 in or less. For structural fence parts, use a framing or coil nailer.

Do I need ring shank nails?

They are not required everywhere, but they grip better and resist backing out as wood swells and shrinks. For outdoor fence boards they are usually the better choice.

Should I use galvanized or stainless nails?

Hot-dipped galvanized works well for most outdoor wood. Stainless steel resists corrosion even better and is often chosen for woods like cedar. Check your lumber maker's guidance.

Can I mix nail lengths on one fence?

Yes. Many fences use shorter nails for pickets and longer nails for rails and posts. Just make sure each nailer you use accepts the length and collation you load.

What if my nails keep jamming?

Check that the nail size and collation angle match your tool. Disconnect the air before clearing it, and look for bent nails or damaged strips. Tool-free jam release, where listed, makes clearing quicker.