What Is the Proper Way to Use a Ladder?

Inspect the ladder before every climb

A quick check takes a minute and catches most problems before they become falls. Do it each time, even if you used the ladder yesterday.

Wipe mud, grease or wet residue off the rungs and your shoes. Slick surfaces are a common reason feet slip. Then look the ladder over from top to bottom.

• Rails and rungs: no bends, cracks or loose rungs.
• Feet: pads are present and not worn smooth.
• Locks and latches: they snap into place and hold. On telescoping models, each section should lock fully.
• Spreaders on a step ladder: they open fully and lock flat.
• Labels: the duty rating label is still readable.

Choose the right ladder for the job

Proper use starts at the store or the garage shelf. The right ladder for a ceiling light is not the right ladder for a gutter. Our best ladder comparison walks through type, reach and load rating side by side if you are still deciding.

Check three things. First, reach: the ladder should let you do the work without standing on the top step or top cap. Second, type: step ladders stand alone and suit indoor work, while extension and telescoping ladders need something to lean against. Third, load: the rating must cover your body weight plus tools and materials.

Duty ratings make this easier. For example, a Type IA rating means 300 lb. Capacities on our comparison page run from 300 lb to 800 lb, but not every maker lists a duty rating, so read the label on the ladder you own. If the label is gone or unclear, treat the ladder as unrated.

Set up on solid, level ground

Most ladder accidents begin with a bad setup, not a bad climb. Pick a spot where all feet sit flat and firm. Avoid soft soil, loose gravel, wet leaves and slick tile.

Never prop a ladder on boxes, buckets or barrels to gain height. If the ground is uneven, use a ladder with built-in leg levelers or move the job to better ground. Keep doors and walkways clear, or lock or block a door that could swing into you.

For a straight or extension ladder, use the four-to-one rule. The base should sit one foot away from the wall for every four feet of height to the point where the ladder rests. A ladder set too upright can tip backward. One set too flat can slide out at the bottom.

The top should rest on a solid surface and extend about three feet above a roof edge if you plan to step onto it. Do not lean a ladder against a window pane or loose siding.

Climb with three points of contact

Face the ladder, whether you go up or down. Hold the rails or rungs with your hands, not the rungs alone with fingertips, and keep your body centered between the rails.

Move one limb at a time. That keeps three points of contact on the ladder at all times: two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand. Wear flat, closed shoes with clean soles.

Do not carry bulky items in your hands while climbing. Use a tool belt, hang a bucket from a hook, or have a helper hand tools up once you are in position. Some step ladders have a tool tray at the top, which helps for small items like screws and a tape measure.

At the working height, keep your belt buckle between the rails. If you have to reach past that, climb down and move the ladder. Overreaching is one of the easiest ways to tip a ladder.

Using step, extension and telescoping ladders

Each type has its own habits. Here is a quick comparison of the key rules.

Telescoping ladders pack small, but they have more locking points. On our comparison page, the longest telescoping model reaches 20.3 ft and folds to 42 in. A ladder that extends that far needs every section locked before you put weight on it. Listen for the click and check the latches by eye.

Raising and lowering an extension ladder

An extension ladder is longer and heavier than it looks, so take your time. If it is too heavy for one person, get a helper.

• Lay the ladder on the ground with the base against a wall or a stable object.
• Walk it upright by lifting the top end and moving hand over hand down the rails.
• Slide the base to the four-to-one angle and check that both feet are flat.
• Extend the fly section with the rope or latches until it reaches the height you need, then confirm the locks.
• Tie off or have a helper steady the base if the ladder could shift.

Stay clear of power lines and other hazards

Look up before you raise any ladder. Aluminum conducts electricity, and a ladder that touches an overhead line can cause serious injury or death. Stay well away from service lines, and call a professional if the work is near them. For electrical jobs indoors, a fiberglass ladder is the non-conductive choice, as on our comparison page. Fiberglass does not make live wires safe, so still shut off power at the breaker first.

Also watch for wind, rain and ice. Do not climb in strong gusts or on wet, slick ladders. Do not let children or pets play near a ladder in use, and never move the ladder while someone is on it.

If you feel dizzy, tired or unsteady, come down. Work at height needs a clear head. For tall jobs such as roofs and second-story gutters, consider hiring a pro or using proper fall protection. A quick look at the specs on our ladder comparison can also help you pick a model with the reach to do the job without stretching.

Frequently asked questions

Can I stand on the top step of a step ladder?

No. The top cap and top step are not meant for standing. You lose the handholds and your center of gravity rises. Use a taller ladder instead.

How often should I check my ladder?

Check it before each use. Also check it after any drop, a hard bump or long storage in damp or hot conditions.

Should someone hold the ladder for me?

A helper can steady the base and pass tools, which is useful on extension ladders. It does not replace a correct angle, firm footing or a locked ladder.

Is it safe to use a ladder alone?

For short, low jobs, many people do. For tall, outdoor or heavy work, having someone nearby is wise in case something goes wrong.