What Is a Bench Vise Used For? Jobs, Types and Safety

What a bench vise does

A bench vise acts like a very strong extra pair of hands. One jaw stays fixed to the bench, and the other moves in and out when you turn a screw handle. Put a part between the jaws, tighten the handle, and the part stays put while you work on it.

That sounds simple, but it solves a real problem. Hand-holding a part while you saw or drill is slow and risky. A vise keeps the work at a comfortable height, and it keeps your fingers away from the cutting edge.

Common jobs for a bench vise

Most home shops use a vise for the same handful of tasks. The work changes a little between wood and metal, but the idea is always to hold the part rigidly.

• Sawing: holding a board, bolt, rod or pipe steady for a clean cut.
• Filing and sanding: gripping a part so you can push the file with both hands.
• Drilling: keeping small parts from spinning when the bit catches.
• Assembly and glue-ups: holding one part while you fit another.
• Shaping wood: planing edges, chiseling joints and trimming tenons.
• Light bending and forming: shaping thin metal or wire, usually on a vise with an anvil surface.
• Holding pipe: gripping round stock for cutting or threading, on vises with built-in pipe jaws.

Wood vises and metal vises are different

The word vise covers two quite different tools. A woodworker's vise is built to grip boards firmly without marring them. A general shop or machinist's vise is built for metal, pipe and rough work.

Woodworker's vises usually have wide jaws and a large opening. They often have toed-in jaws, which close slightly at the top before the bottom so a board is gripped firmly while you cut or shape it. They also have holes for wood facings that protect finished surfaces. Our best bench vise page lists which models offer these features and which do not.

General shop vises tend to have serrated steel jaws, a swivel base and an anvil behind the jaws. Those serrations bite into metal well, but they can dent soft wood. If you mostly build furniture, start with a woodworker's vise. If you mostly fix things and cut metal, a general vise makes more sense.

What a bench vise is made of

Most bench vises have a body of cast iron, ductile iron or forged iron. Iron is heavy and stiff, which is what you want, because a vise that flexes or shifts under load will not hold work well. The screw, handle and guide bars are usually steel.

Our spec sheet shows this split. The Jorgensen 41012, Wilton WVA6 and VEVOR KS08 are listed with ductile or forged iron bodies, while the two Yost models listed are cast iron. Ductile iron is generally tougher than plain cast iron because it resists cracking better, which is why it shows up on heavier vises.

Weight is a useful hint. The Jorgensen 41012 is listed at 39 lb, the VEVOR KS08 at 40.79 lb and the Wilton WVA6 at 25.7 lb, while the compact Yost LV-4 is listed at 9 lb. A heavier vise usually stays steadier when you saw or pry, but it also needs a sturdier bench.

How a bench vise works

The basic parts are the same on nearly every model: a fixed jaw, a moving jaw, a screw, and a handle. Turning the handle drives the screw and moves the front jaw. Many vises add a quick release lever, which disengages the nut so you can slide the jaw open or shut fast, then tighten the last bit with the handle.

Some models add a swivel base, so you can rotate the vise to a better angle for the job. Others include built-in pipe jaws for round stock. These extras are handy, but they matter less than getting the basics right: a solid mount, a firm grip and enough jaw opening for your stock.

Picking and mounting one

Start with the work you do most. Jaw width tells you how much of a board face the vise can grip, and max opening tells you the thickest piece you can clamp. Remember that wood facings take up part of that opening.

Then check how it mounts, because this is where many buyers get caught out. A benchtop vise such as the Jorgensen 41012 fits benches up to 3 in thick. An under-bench model, such as the IRWIN 226361, mounts to the underside. A bolt-on model such as the Wilton WVA6 needs four 0.51 in holes drilled through the bench. Measure your bench top before you buy, and use the full set of bolts.

If you want to compare sizes and features across several models, our best bench vise guide puts them on one spec sheet.

Safety when using a vise

A vise is a simple tool, but it holds parts that you are cutting, grinding or hammering, so a few habits matter.

Wear safety glasses whenever you saw, file, drill or grind in a vise. Add hearing protection for grinding or loud hammering. Keep fingers clear of the jaws and the sliding bar, since the moving jaw can pinch hard.

Do not over-tighten. Snug is enough, and extra force can damage the work or the vise. Do not slip a pipe or cheater bar over the handle to gain leverage, and do not use a vise as a press unless the maker says it is rated for that. The Wilton WVA6 listing, for example, says the handle is designed to bend before the vise is damaged.

Finally, make sure the vise is firmly fixed to a bench that can take the load. A vise that shifts mid-cut is more dangerous than no vise at all.

Frequently asked questions

What is a bench vise called in Hindi?

It is commonly called a shikanja (शिकंजा) in Hindi. In workshops you will often hear the English word vice used as well.

Is it vise or vice?

In US English, the clamping tool is spelled vise. Vice is the British spelling for the tool, and in the US it usually means a bad habit. Both spellings refer to the same bench tool in a workshop.

Can I hammer on the anvil part of a bench vise?

Only if the maker designed it for that. Some vises include a flat anvil surface for light hammering and shaping, such as the Wilton WVA6 and Yost LV-4. Keep to light work and do not strike the jaws or handle.

Can a bench vise hold wood without marking it?

Yes, if you use soft wood facings or jaw pads. Many woodworker's vises have holes for facings. On a metal vise with serrated jaws, add protective jaw caps or a scrap board to avoid dents.