What Grit Sandpaper Should You Use on Wood?

The short version: a grit chart for wood

Grit is the number printed on the paper. A lower number means bigger abrasive particles and a rougher, faster cut. A higher number means finer particles and a smoother surface. Wood rarely needs more than three or four grits to look and feel right.

Here is a simple guide you can match to your job.

How to build a grit sequence

Each grit removes the scratches left by the previous one. If you jump from 80 straight to 220, the fine paper cannot remove the deep scratches, and they show up later under stain or paint. The 3M listing we compare advises skipping no more than one grit in a sequence, which is a good rule to follow.

A typical sequence for bare wood looks like this:

• 80 or 100 grit: shape the wood, flatten uneven areas or strip an old finish.
• 120 grit: remove the scratches from the coarse step.
• 150 or 180 grit: smooth the surface further.
• 220 grit: final pass for a surface that feels even to the touch.
• Wipe off dust between every grit so loose particles do not scratch the surface.

Always sand with the grain

Sand in the same direction as the wood grain, especially with the last two grits. Sanding across the grain leaves scratches that cut through the fibers, and stain makes them stand out. Use light, even pressure and let the paper do the cutting.

Switch to a fresh sheet when the paper stops cutting. A worn sheet slides over the wood, makes heat and wastes time. If dust packs into the paper, tap it clean or move to a sheet with an anti-clog coating.

Grits for staining, painting and furniture

Before staining, finish at 180 or 220 grit. Stain soaks into the wood, so leftover scratches show as dark lines. Going much finer than 220 can also burnish the surface and make it take stain unevenly, so there is little reason to go past it.

Before painting, 120 to 180 grit is usually enough. Paint sits on top of the wood and needs a little tooth to grip, so you do not need a glass-smooth surface. Fill any dents first, then sand the filler flush and finish with the same grit.

For wood furniture, plan by condition. A piece with an old finish usually starts at 80 or 100 grit to strip it, then moves to 120, 180 and 220. A piece that only needs a refresh can start at 150 or 180 and go straight to 220. On veneer, start finer and sand lightly, because veneer is thin and coarse paper can cut through it quickly.

What counts as fine sandpaper for wood?

In woodworking, 180 to 220 grit is generally called fine, and 320 to 600 grit is very fine. Grits from 800 up to 2000 and beyond are for polishing finishes, painted surfaces and metal, not for preparing bare wood.

That matters when you read pack listings. The Shineboc assortment in our comparison covers 120, 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 2000 grit, and the Pihemum assortment lists 15 grits from 80 to 5000. Both include far finer grits than bare wood needs. The extra range is useful if you also polish a clear coat or work on metal.

Choosing a pack that fits your project

For one project, you only need three or four grits. A pack that covers 80 to 220 in roughly even steps is enough for most furniture and trim work. The Aceple quarter-sheet pack has 52 sheets in six grits from 80 to 400, and the BOSHCRAFT pack has 50 sheets in the same range. The MAXMAN pack has 70 sheets across seven grits from 80 to 600 and includes a detail sanding block.

If you already have the coarse and medium grits, a single-grit refill can be enough. The 3M 220 grit pack has five 11 × 9 in sheets, and the 3M Pro Grade 220 pack has 20 sheets with an anti-clog coating and wet or dry use. You can see how every option stacks up on our best sandpaper for wood comparison.

Sheet size matters too. Quarter sheets of 5.5 × 4.5 in suit palm sanders and small blocks. Full sheets of 11 × 9 in suit hand sanding or cutting down to fit a sander. Strips of 9 × 3.6 in fit many sanding blocks. Check your tool's pad size before you buy, and read the sandpaper comparison for the grit count and sheet count of each pack.

Safety notes

Wood dust is a respiratory irritant, and dust from some species can cause allergic reactions. Wear a dust mask or respirator rated for fine particles, and sand in a ventilated area. Safety glasses protect your eyes from flying particles.

If you use a power sander, wear hearing protection, keep cords clear of the pad and unplug the tool before changing paper. Old finishes on furniture made decades ago may contain lead. If you suspect lead paint, do not dry sand it. Test it first or hire a qualified pro.

Fine wood dust can also ignite in some conditions. Vacuum it up instead of leaving piles, and keep oily rags away from sanding areas.

Frequently asked questions

Can I skip 120 grit and go from 80 to 220?

No. That jump is too big, and 220 grit cannot remove the scratches left by 80 grit. Add 120 and 150 or 180 in between.

Should I sand between coats of finish?

Yes, in most cases. A light pass with 220 grit or finer knocks down dust nibs and raised grain so the next coat levels out. Remove the dust before applying more finish.

Is wet sanding good for bare wood?

Usually not. Water raises the grain and can swell the wood. Wet and dry paper is better used on cured finishes, paint or metal.

Does hardwood need a different grit than softwood?

The sequence is the same. Softwoods dent and scratch more easily, so use lighter pressure and avoid starting too coarse. Hardwoods can handle starting at 80 or 100 grit when you need to remove material.

How do I know when I am done sanding?

The surface should feel even and uniform with no visible scratches under raking light. Wiping with a damp cloth can reveal missed spots before you apply stain or paint.