Is a Drill Bit Sharpener Worth It?

Do drill bit sharpeners actually work?

Yes, when the bit is held true and the angle is set correctly. A sharpener is a small grinder with a guide. The guide holds the bit at a fixed angle against the wheel, so both cutting edges are ground the same way. That repeatable geometry is what hand grinding on a bench grinder struggles to match.

The catch is that a sharpener can only restore what is left of the bit. A bit with a snapped tip, a bent shank or deep chips in the flutes may be past saving. A bit that is merely dull, which is the most common problem, is a good candidate.

Bad results usually come from setup mistakes, not the machine. A bit that sits crooked in the chuck, an angle that does not suit the material, or too much material removed in one pass can leave a bit that cuts worse than before.

When a sharpener is worth buying

The value comes from how many bits you would otherwise replace and how often you drill. A sharpener makes sense when several of these describe you:

• You own a full index of bits, including larger sizes that cost more to replace.
• You drill metal, hardwood or masonry often enough that bits dull regularly.
• You work with specialty bits, such as cobalt, carbide-tipped or coated bits, that you want to keep in service.
• You run a shop, a job site or a busy home workshop where dull bits slow the work.
• You like maintaining your own tools and will take a few minutes to set each bit up properly.

When you can skip it

If you drill a handful of holes a year, a sharpener will spend most of its life in a cabinet. The same goes for a small set of inexpensive bits. In that case, replacing a worn bit is simpler than learning a new tool.

It is also worth asking whether the bit is really the problem. A drill that bogs down or stalls may need a better tool, not sharper bits. If you are replacing your drill anyway, our best drill page lays out the specs to compare. If your bits are mostly small driver bits and not drill bits, a new set from our best drill driver bit set page is the better fix, since sharpeners are made for drill bits, not screwdriving bits.

Some jobs call for a different bit altogether. For thin sheet metal, a step bit often gives cleaner holes than a twist bit, and our best step drill bit page covers those. Check that the sharpener you pick actually supports the style of bit you want to restore.

What to check before you buy

Not every sharpener fits every toolbox. Start with the sizes you own, then look at the angle and wheel. Our best drill sharpener page puts the published specs on one sheet. Here is a quick view of the six models on it:

Match the sharpener to your bits

Bit size is the first filter. If your largest bit is 3/4 inch, a model that stops at 12.7 mm will leave it out. Both of the 20 mm models cover it, and so does the 750X, which tops out at 19.05 mm.

Point angle comes next. A 118 degree setting suits general work, and 135 degrees suits harder materials. The Drill Doctor 500X offers those two presets, while the 750X and the three other adjustable models let you pick a value within their range.

Wheel type matters for bit material. The Drill Doctor listings say their diamond wheels handle carbide and masonry bits. The PreAsion listing says its CBN wheel is for high speed steel, and the VEVOR comes with both CBN and SDC wheels. Pick the wheel that matches what you actually drill with.

Collets hold the bit true, so more collets generally mean a closer fit to each size. Weight is a practical factor too. The VEVOR lists 20.1 lb, which suggests a bench machine, while the 350X lists 2.33 lb and is easier to move and store.

Safety and setup tips

Grinding throws sparks and fine dust, and the motor can be loud. Treat a sharpener like any bench grinder.

Good habits make for better edges and fewer accidents:

• Wear safety glasses or a face shield every time you grind.
• Use hearing protection if the machine is loud in your space, and a dust mask when grinding masonry or carbide bits.
• Unplug the machine before you change a wheel, collet or chuck.
• Let hot bits cool before handling them, and do not quench a hot bit in water unless the maker says so.
• Keep hair, sleeves and jewelry clear of the wheel, and keep fingers away from the grinding area.
• Remove a little material at a time and check both cutting edges for even wear.

The bottom line

A drill bit sharpener is a good investment for people who drill often and own bits worth saving. It is a poor fit for occasional users with a few basic bits.

If you are leaning toward buying, list your bit sizes and materials first, then compare machines by range, angle and wheel. That list will tell you which model fits, and whether you need one at all.

Frequently asked questions

Can a sharpener fix a broken drill bit?

No. It restores dull cutting edges. A bit with a snapped tip, a bent shank or heavy damage is usually better replaced.

Do I need a sharpener that creates split points?

Not always. Split points help a bit start without walking on smooth surfaces. The Drill Doctor 750X and 500X list split point sharpening, while the other four models on our page do not.

How do I know my bit is dull?

Common signs are more pressure needed to cut, heat or smoke at the tip, rough holes and a bit that skates across the surface. Chips that come off as dust instead of curls are another hint.

Can I sharpen masonry bits with any sharpener?

No. Check the listing. The three Drill Doctor models say they handle masonry bits with a diamond wheel.