How to Use Side Cutters Correctly
Open the jaws, set the wire or zip tie deep between the cutting edges with the flat side of the tool facing the cut you want to keep, and squeeze the handles in one smooth motion. Cut only soft wire, zip ties and small fasteners the tool is rated for, and never cut live wires. Wear eye protection, because cut ends can fly off.
WORKPRO W031377ABest overall
CRAFTSMAN CMHT81646Best for electrical work
Crescent PS5429CMost cutting powerThe basic cutting method
Side cutters, also called diagonal cutters or dikes, work like a pair of angled scissors that meet edge to edge. The idea is simple, but a few habits make cuts cleaner and protect the tool.
Follow these steps each time:
- Check that the wire is dead, unplugged or disconnected from power before you touch it.
- Put on safety glasses. Snipped ends can fly off at speed.
- Open the jaws wide enough to take the wire without forcing it.
- Slide the wire into the back of the jaws, close to the pivot, where you get the most force.
- Hold the flat face of the tool against the side you want to keep. The cut leaves a slight bevel on the other side.
- Squeeze the handles in one firm, smooth motion until the wire parts.
- If the wire is thick, stop and use a bigger tool rather than squeezing harder.
Where to place the wire
Position matters more than hand strength. The jaws act as levers, so a wire near the pivot gets far more cutting force than one at the tips. Using the tips for anything other than fine trimming wastes effort and can chip the edges.
The flat side of the cutters leaves the cleanest surface. That is why side cutters are good for trimming a zip tie flush against a bundle: you press the flat face to the surface and snip. Turn the tool so the flat side faces the part that will stay.
Cut at a right angle to the wire. A wire that sits at a slant tends to twist or slip as you squeeze, which can nick the edges. If the wire slides, reposition and try again instead of squeezing harder.
What side cutters can and cannot cut
Side cutters are made for copper and aluminum wire, zip ties, and small nails or soft fasteners, within the tool's rated capacity. Harder materials need a different tool. Steel cable, hardened bolts and thick nails can chip the edges or spring the joint.
Our best side cutter page lists the steel and edge hardness for each model, which is a good guide to how much abuse a pair is built for. For example, the WORKPRO 6in pair uses 50CrV steel with 65 HRC induction-hardened edges. The Crescent 8 in model lists an 11 maximum wire capacity, so check each listing for its stated limits.
When in doubt, read the maker's listed capacity. If the wire is close to that limit, choose longer handles or a compound action design, which gives more leverage.
Safety notes that matter
Cutting tools and electricity are a risky mix. Treat every wire as live until you have proved otherwise, and switch off power at the breaker before cutting anything in a wall, fixture or appliance.
Do not assume your cutters protect you. None of the models on our spec sheet list insulated handles, and the KATA long-reach listing says outright to disconnect power and not to use it on live circuits. Only tools rated for live work, with insulated handles, belong near energized wires.
- Wear safety glasses or goggles every time you cut.
- Point the cut end away from your face and other people, or cover it with your free hand or a cloth.
- Never rock the tool side to side or bend wire back and forth against the edges.
- Do not hammer on the handles or add a pipe for extra leverage.
- Keep your fingers clear of the pinch point between the handles.
Choosing the right pair for the job
Size and leverage change how a job feels. Short cutters fit tight spaces. Longer handles or compound action cut thicker wire with less effort. Grips matter too, since bi-material grips reduce fatigue on a long job.
This table matches common jobs to the features on our best side cutter page.
| Job | What to look for | Example from our page |
|---|---|---|
| Trimming zip ties and small wire | Short body, light weight | WORKPRO 6in, 6.9 oz |
| General electrical work (power off) | Hardened edges, comfortable grips | CRAFTSMAN 6-in, drop forged steel |
| Thicker wire with less effort | Compound action leverage | Crescent 8 in, 50% more cutting power |
| Reaching behind panels | Long-reach design | KATA 11 in, 17.28 oz |
Care and common mistakes
Good cutters last for years if you treat them well. Wipe them clean after use, keep them dry, and store them away from damp spots. Several listings mention a corrosion-resistant finish, but a finish is no substitute for keeping the tool dry.
The most common mistake is asking too much of the tool. Chips in the edges usually come from cutting hardened steel, and a loose joint usually comes from twisting or prying. If the jaws no longer meet cleanly, replace the pair rather than forcing it.
Another habit to avoid is using the cutters as pliers to pull or bend. Side cutters are built to cut, and the edges are not meant to take that kind of side load. Keep a separate pair of pliers handy for gripping and bending, and let the cutters do only the cutting.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my cut leave a sharp point?
Diagonal cutters leave a slight bevel on one side. Face the flat side toward the part you are keeping, and file or sand any sharp end that remains.
Can I cut a nail with side cutters?
Only small, soft nails within the tool's rated capacity. Hard or thick nails can chip the edges, so use a tool made for that.
How do I know if my cutters are dull?
If you must squeeze hard, the wire crushes or slips, or the jaws no longer meet cleanly, the edges are worn or damaged and the pair needs replacing.
Are diagonal cutters the same as wire strippers?
No. Cutters sever the wire. Strippers remove only the outer insulation, and using cutters for stripping can nick the copper strands.