How to Use Jack Stands Properly on a Car

Before you lift: set up the work area

Good jack stand use starts before the car leaves the ground. The surface matters more than almost anything else. Work on flat, hard ground such as a level concrete garage floor. Avoid soft dirt, gravel, and sloped driveways. Asphalt can soften on hot days, and a narrow stand foot can sink into it.

Park the car, set the parking brake, and put an automatic in Park or a manual in gear. Then chock the wheels that will stay on the ground. If you lift the front, chock both rear wheels on the front and back sides. Also clear the area of tools, kids, and pets.

• Level, hard surface with no cracks or loose material
• Parking brake on, transmission in Park or gear
• Wheel chocks on the wheels staying on the ground
• Owner's manual open to the lifting and jacking page
• Jack and stands inspected for bent parts, cracks, or damaged welds

Choose the right stands for your car

Stands need to match the vehicle. Pick stands with a rated capacity well above the weight your car puts on each end, and check whether a listing states its rating per stand or per pair. Then look at the height range. A low car needs stands that start low enough to fit under the lift point, while an SUV needs more reach.

The table below shows how a few stands from our data differ. For a wider look at ratings, bases, and locking designs, see our best jack stands comparison.

Find the correct lift and support points

Your owner's manual shows where the car can be lifted and supported. Many cars have reinforced pinch welds along the sides, while others have frame rails, subframe points, or solid axle sections. A jack point and a stand point are often the same spot, but not always, so read the manual.

Do not place a stand under the oil pan, floor pan, suspension arms that can move, exhaust parts, or thin body panels. These can bend or give way. A stand saddle should sit squarely on solid metal, with the load centered on it.

Step by step: lifting and setting the stands

Work on one end at a time, and always use stands in pairs, one on each side of the same axle. Here is the usual order.

• Loosen the lug nuts slightly if you plan to remove a wheel, while the car is still on the ground.
• Position the jack under the central lift point for that end, or the point named in your manual.
• Raise the car until it is high enough to fit the stands with a little room to spare.
• Set each stand to the same height and make sure the ratchet bar is fully seated in a tooth. If your stands have a safety pin, insert it through the post.
• Slide each stand under its support point, with the base flat on the floor and the saddle centered on solid metal.
• Lower the jack slowly until the weight settles onto the stands. Keep the jack in place, just snug under the car, as a backup.
• Give the car a firm push at the bumper or fender. If it rocks or shifts, raise it, reset the stands, and try again.

Why stand design matters

A wide pyramid base spreads the load and resists tipping on a garage floor. A large saddle holds the frame or pinch weld securely. Self-locking ratchets are fast to set, but you must check that the bar is fully engaged. Double-lock stands, such as the Pro-LifT PL3300, add a metal pin through the post as a second line of defense.

Use the lowest height that gives you room to work. A stand that is extended only partway is generally steadier than one near the top of its range. Also look for a published safety standard. The BIG RED T46202 and the Amazon Basics stands list ASME PASE, which covers portable automotive service equipment.

Working safely under the car

Once the car is on stands, keep your body in mind as much as the car. Wear safety glasses when you work under a vehicle, since rust, dirt, and fluids can fall into your eyes. If you use an impact wrench or grinder, add hearing protection.

Avoid jerky force. Loosening a stuck bolt with a long breaker bar can push the car sideways. Do the hard breaking-loose work with the wheels on the ground when you can, and if you must push hard under the car, double-check that the stands are still square. Never start the engine or put the car in gear while it is on stands.

Lowering the car safely

Reverse the process with care. Clear your tools, then raise the jack until it takes the weight and the stands go slack. Remove any safety pins and lower the ratchet bars, or release the handle locks. Move the stands out from under the car before you lower it.

Lower the jack slowly until the tires rest on the ground, then remove the jack and chocks. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern once the wheels are on the ground. Store your stands dry and inspect them before the next use. If you are shopping for a pair, our jack stand comparison lines up heights and locking types side by side.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use one jack stand instead of two?

No. Use stands in pairs, one on each side of the same axle, so the car sits level and balanced. Use a second pair if you want to lift the whole car.

Should I leave the jack under the car after setting the stands?

Yes, snug under a solid point as a backup. It is not the main support, so the stands must be set and checked first.

Can I use jack stands on a slight slope?

Avoid it. A slope can make the car roll or push a stand sideways. Move to level, hard ground.

Are cinder blocks or wood a safe substitute for stands?

No. Concrete blocks can crack suddenly, and wood can split or slip. Use stands made for automotive loads.

How tall should my stands be?

Choose a height range that reaches your support point with room to spare. Low cars need a low starting height, while SUVs need a taller reach.