How to Use an Oil Filter Wrench Correctly

Start by matching the wrench to your filter

Before you touch a tool, look at what you are removing. A spin-on filter is a metal canister that screws onto the engine. A cartridge filter sits inside a housing with a cap, and you remove the cap rather than gripping a canister. Those two designs need different tools.

Spin-on canisters work with pliers, straps, bands and 3-jaw wrenches. Cartridge housings need a cap socket that fits the cap exactly. If you want to compare specific models, our best oil filter wrench page puts size ranges and drive sizes side by side.

Compare the common wrench styles

Each style grips a little differently. The table below summarizes how they work, using sizes from the published specifications of the tools on our comparison page.

Get set up safely

Oil filter work happens under the car, so preparation matters more than muscle. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool until the exhaust and oil are no longer hot. Hot oil can burn skin.

If you need to raise the vehicle, support it on properly rated jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone, and never get under a car held up only by a jack. Wear safety glasses, because oil and grit can fall straight toward your face. Nitrile gloves help with grip and keep used oil off your skin.

• Slide a drain pan under the filter, and make it wider than you think you need.
• Wipe the filter and the area around it so the wrench does not slip on oil.
• Keep rags handy for the oil that will run down the shell.
• Drain the engine oil first if your routine allows, so the filter holds less.

How to use a strap wrench

A strap wrench is the style most people ask about, and the key is the direction of the wrap. The strap must tighten around the filter as you turn it counterclockwise, as seen from below. If it loosens instead, flip the wrench around.

Place the strap near the base of the filter, close to the engine. That end is usually the sturdiest part of the shell. A strap near the thin, domed end can crush or slip.

• Loop the strap around the filter and feed it through the handle or head, following the maker's instructions.
• Pull the slack out so the strap sits snug before you apply force.
• Fit your ratchet or breaker bar if the wrench has a 3/8 or 1/2 in drive, as the GEARWRENCH does.
• Turn counterclockwise with slow, steady pressure until the seal breaks.
• Remove the wrench and spin the filter off by hand, keeping it upright so oil does not spill.

How to use pliers, caps and 3-jaw wrenches

Adjustable pliers work much like the strap method. Open the jaws, set them around the base of the filter, and squeeze until the teeth bite. Pull the handle counterclockwise. Expect the jaws to mark the shell, so use pliers only on a filter you are throwing away anyway.

Cap sockets are simpler. Seat the socket fully on the cap, keep the ratchet straight in line with it, and turn counterclockwise. A 6-point socket such as the Felisbieti 27mm reduces the chance of rounding the cap. Check the socket size against your cap before you pull hard.

For Toyota and Lexus cartridge housings, the Motivx wrench is a 64.3mm, 14-flute design that runs on a 3/8 in drive. Always confirm the fit for your engine. A wrong-size cap tool can crack the tabs on a plastic cap.

If a strap or band keeps slipping, check for oil on both the strap and the filter. The ValueMax instructions say to wipe the surface clean before use and not to exceed its stated maximum torque, which is 200N for the large strap and 90N for the small one.

Install the new filter by hand

The wrench has done its job once the old filter is off. Do not use it to tighten the new one. Overtightening is what makes filters hard to remove next time, and it can damage the gasket.

Check that the old gasket came off with the filter. A stuck gasket on the engine can cause a leak. Then wipe the mounting surface clean, dab a little fresh oil on the new filter's rubber gasket, and thread it on by hand.

• Spin the filter on until the gasket just touches the mounting surface.
• Tighten by hand the amount printed on the filter or its box, often about three quarters of a turn.
• For a cartridge cap, follow the torque in your vehicle's service manual, using a torque wrench on a 3/8 or 1/2 in drive.
• Refill with oil, run the engine briefly, and check for drips at the filter.

Avoid these common mistakes

Do not grip the thin dome at the filter's end. Do not hit the wrench with a hammer to force it. And do not reach for power tools out of habit. An impact wrench is built for lug nuts and bolts, and it can overtighten or tear a filter shell. If you are curious how those tools differ, see our best impact wrench for automotive use page, but keep it away from the oil filter.

If a filter will not budge, stop and switch tools instead of adding force. A strap that slips often works better as a wider rubber strap or a larger-capacity strap wrench. A pliers jaw that rounds off the shell is a sign to move to a 3-jaw or strap style. Take your time, because a slipped wrench can send your knuckles into the oil pan or exhaust.

Frequently asked questions

Which way do I turn an oil filter wrench?

Counterclockwise to remove, as you look at the filter from below. Clockwise tightens it. Set a strap so it cinches as you turn counterclockwise.

Can I reuse a filter after using pliers on it?

No. Pliers dent and mark the shell. Plan to replace the filter whenever you remove it with a gripping tool.

What if the filter only spins a little and the wrench slips?

Wipe oil off the filter and the tool, move the grip closer to the base, and try a wider or larger-capacity wrench before applying more force.

Do I need a wrench for a cartridge filter?

Yes, usually a cap socket sized to your housing. Measure or check the cap before buying, since cap sizes are not universal.

Should I use the wrench to tighten the new filter?

No. Hand tight to the manufacturer's turn guidance is enough, and it keeps the next removal easier.