How to Use a Harmonic Balancer Puller on Chevy and Ford Engines
Remove the center retainer bolt, grip the back of the damper with the puller jaws, and thread the forcing screw so the rod pushes against the crankshaft end while the jaws pull the damper off. Turn the screw slowly with a wrench until the damper slides free, and never hammer on it. The steps are the same on most Chevy and Ford engines, but check your damper style first.
Orion Motor Tech PD01-BBBest overall
ReluxGo BSJ025Longest listed forcing rod
GEAROLL CR-GZ007Six jaws, engines namedWhat the puller does and why you need it
A harmonic balancer, also called a damper, is pressed onto the front of the crankshaft. It fits tightly, and prying on it can bend the rubber ring or damage the pulley. A puller applies steady force in line with the crank instead.
The kit works in two parts. The jaws hook behind the damper and pull outward. A forcing screw, with a forcing rod under it, pushes against the end of the crankshaft. As you tighten the screw, the damper is drawn off the crank evenly.
Check your damper before you start
Most kits are built for a balancer held on by a single center retainer bolt. Some dampers have tapped holes in the face for a bolt-on puller instead. Our spec data does not list a works-without-tapped-holes rating for any kit on our page, so confirm your damper style before you buy.
Fit also depends on the engine. The listings name Chevy trucks from 2003 on, Fords from 1995 on, GM Gen II engines and several other makes. A Silverado is a Chevy truck, so it falls inside that listed range. A Malibu is not named in the listings, and Malibu engines vary by year, so check the engine and damper style on your car rather than assuming it fits.
If you are still choosing a kit, our best harmonic balancer puller page puts jaw count, rod length and drive size side by side.
Tools and prep
Gather the puller kit, a socket and breaker bar for the center bolt, a wrench that fits the forcing screw, and a way to mark the damper position. Also have a balancer installer or the correct press method ready for reassembly.
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Jack stands rated for the vehicle if you need to work from below, never a jack alone
- Penetrating oil for the bolt and the damper hub
- Paint marker for alignment marks
- Service manual torque value for the center bolt on your engine
Step-by-step removal
Disconnect the negative battery cable first. Let the engine cool fully. The belt, fan and shroud can be in the way, so remove what you need for access. The listings say these kits work in tight engine compartments without removing the radiator, but a snug fit is still a snug fit.
- Remove the serpentine belt and any parts blocking the damper.
- Mark the damper and the engine so you can check alignment later.
- Hold the crank from turning and loosen the center bolt. Remove the bolt and any washer.
- Pick the jaw set that sits behind the damper hub. Three-jaw kits grip at three points, and six-jaw kits include two sets so you can try another fit.
- Attach the jaws evenly so they pull straight. Make sure each one is seated and not on the rubber ring.
- Choose the forcing rod that reaches the crank end. Longer rods give more reach.
- Thread the forcing screw in until it contacts the rod, then tighten with a wrench in slow, even turns.
- Keep going until the damper slides off the crank. Catch it, since it is heavy.
Chevy and Ford notes
On most Chevy engines the center bolt comes out and the puller works through that opening. Older small blocks can differ, so look at your damper before pulling. On a Silverado, the larger V8s generally have room for a standard three-jaw setup, but confirm the jaw depth against the damper hub.
On Ford engines, follow the same method, but watch for the keyway on the crank. Once the damper starts moving, keep it square so the key does not catch. If the damper stops moving, back off and recheck the jaws. Do not crank harder on a crooked setup.
The rubber ring on many dampers is bonded and can separate. If you see cracks or the outer ring has shifted, plan to replace the damper rather than reuse it.
Comparing kit specs
Here are a few kits from our comparison data. All four list four forcing rods. Rod length and drive size are the specs that change what you can do on your engine.
Where the table shows a different drive size, make sure you own a matching wrench or ratchet.
| Kit | Jaws | Longest rod | Forcing screw drive |
|---|---|---|---|
| Orion Motor Tech PD01-BB | 3 | 7.5 in | 24 mm hex / 3/8 in square |
| ReluxGo BSJ025 | 3 | 7.6 in | 24 mm |
| GEAROLL CR-GZ007 | 6 (two sets of 3) | 7.28 in | 3/8 in drive |
| OEMTOOLS 25090 | 3, spring-loaded | 7.41 in | Not listed |
Safety and common mistakes
Wear eye protection, since a slipping jaw or rod can launch. Keep your hands clear of the pulling line and never stand where a falling damper could land on you.
Avoid heating the damper with a torch unless your service manual says so, because heat can ruin the rubber ring. Do not hit the forcing screw with a hammer, and skip impact guns unless the maker says the screw can take one.
- Uneven jaws can bend the damper or strip the hub
- Skipping the alignment marks makes reassembly harder
- Reusing a damaged damper can cause vibration
- Forgetting to check the torque spec on the center bolt
Frequently asked questions
Can I use the same puller on a Chevy and a Ford?
Often yes. The listed kits name both Chevy and Ford engines. Confirm that your damper uses a center bolt and that the jaws reach behind the hub.
What if the damper will not budge?
Stop and check that the jaws are even and the rod is seated on the crank end. Soak the hub with penetrating oil and try again with slow, steady force.
Do I need to remove the radiator?
Several listings say their kits work without removing it. Your engine bay may still need the fan or shroud out for room.
How do I reinstall the damper?
Do not hammer it on. Use an installer tool that pulls or presses it onto the crank, then torque the center bolt to the manual's spec.