How to Use a Corded Hammer Drill Correctly

Fit a masonry bit, switch the drill to hammer mode, hold it square to the wall with the side handle in place, and let the tool do the work with steady, moderate pressure. Pull the bit out often to clear dust and keep the cord clear of the bit. Wear eye, ear and dust protection every time.

Check the drill before you start

A few minutes of setup prevents most problems. Unplug the drill, then look over the cord for cuts or crushed spots, and check that the chuck turns freely. Never use a drill with a damaged cord or a trigger that does not switch off cleanly.

The steps below apply to any corded model, including DEWALT, Milwaukee and Ryobi drills. Controls sit in slightly different places from brand to brand, so skim your manual for the mode selector, the direction switch and the depth rod fitting.

Cord and plug: no cuts, no bent prongs, no warm spots from earlier use.
Side handle: fitted and clamped tight, since this is your main control if the bit catches.
Bit: a carbide-tipped masonry bit that is sharp, straight and sized for your anchor.
Depth rod: set to the hole depth if your drill has one.
Work area: clear of tripping hazards, with the cord routed away from the bit.

Pick the right mode and bit

Most corded hammer drills have a two-position selector. In drill-only mode the bit simply spins, which is right for wood and metal. In hammer mode the bit also taps forward rapidly, which breaks up brick, block and concrete as it turns.

Use hammer mode only for masonry. It is not needed for wood, and it can chew up soft materials or make a mess of tile glaze. Always use a masonry bit with a carbide tip in hammer mode, because a standard twist bit wears out fast and can overheat.

All six drills on our best hammer drill corded page have a 1/2 inch chuck, so they accept larger shank sizes. Keyless chucks tighten by hand and are quick to swap. Keyed chucks need a key but grip tightly, which helps stop big masonry bits from slipping.

Material	Mode	Bit type	Notes
Brick	Hammer	Carbide masonry bit	Start slowly so the bit does not skate.
Concrete block	Hammer	Carbide masonry bit	Hollow cores can let the bit run through suddenly.
Poured concrete	Hammer	Carbide masonry bit	Expect slower progress and more dust.
Wood	Drill only	Wood or brad-point bit	Hammer mode is not needed.
Metal	Drill only	Metal bit	Use a slow speed and a drop of cutting oil.

Drill a hole step by step

Follow this order for a clean, straight hole. It works the same whether you are setting a single anchor or drilling a whole row.

Mark the spot with a pencil. For hard, smooth surfaces, a small center punch mark keeps the bit from wandering.
Insert the bit fully into the chuck, tighten it, and if you have a keyed chuck, remove the key before you plug in.
Set the selector to hammer mode and the direction switch to forward.
Set the depth rod so the tip of the bit extends just past the length you need.
Plug in, brace your feet, and grip the main handle and side handle with both hands.
Place the bit on the mark, square to the surface, and squeeze the trigger gently to start the hole.
Once the bit has bitten in, increase speed and apply steady forward pressure until the rod touches the wall.
Pull the bit out partway while it is still spinning to clear dust, then release the trigger and wait for the bit to stop before setting the drill down.

Technique tips for better results

Hold the drill at a right angle to the surface. Tilting it makes the hole oval, and the bit can bind. A small square or a quick glance from the side helps you check alignment on the first few holes.

Let the hammer action do the cutting. Leaning your full weight into the drill does not speed things up, and it can stall the motor or overheat the bit. If progress stops, the bit may have hit hard aggregate, so ease off, back out, and try again.

Motor current helps here. The drills on our comparison page range from 6.5 to 7.8 amps, and a higher rating helps the motor hold its speed when the bit meets something hard. Blows per minute matter too: most listed drills there show 48,000 BPM, and one lists 52,700 BPM.

For long sessions, a lock-on trigger keeps the motor running without a constant squeeze. Use it with care, though. Know where the off switch is, and release it before you lift the bit out of a hole you are not finished with.

If you only drill the odd hole in a wall, a lighter-duty drill is fine. For repeated drilling in brick or block, look for a side handle, depth rod and lock-on trigger. Our best drill page covers general-purpose options if masonry is only a small part of your work.

Safety notes you should not skip

Hammer drills are loud, throw dust and can kick hard if a bit jams. Wear safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask rated for fine particles. Concrete and brick dust can irritate your lungs, so work with ventilation or a vacuum held near the hole when you can.

Before drilling into any wall, think about what is behind it. Electrical wires, water pipes and gas lines can all run through masonry and plaster. Use a detector and avoid drilling near outlets or switches, and shut off power at the breaker if you are unsure.

Keep the cord behind you and away from the bit. If you use an extension cord, choose one rated for the drill's current and for outdoor use if needed, and plug into a GFCI outlet in damp areas. Do not use a corded drill in rain or on wet ground.

If the bit hits steel reinforcing bar, stop. Hammering on rebar can damage the bit and jerk the drill. One listing among our compared drills notes that it should not be used in reinforced concrete walls, so check what your drill is made for. When working on a ladder, keep both feet planted and avoid overreaching, since the kick from a bound bit can throw you off balance.

When a corded model is the right choice

A corded drill suits long runs of holes, because there is no battery to swap or recharge. It also keeps full power from the first hole to the last. The tradeoff is the cord, which limits reach and needs managing.

If you want to move freely around a site or work where no outlet is close, a battery model may suit you better. See our cordless hammer drill comparison for that route.

To pick a corded drill, start from the best hammer drill corded page. It lines up amps, speed, weight and control features on one spec sheet, so you can match a drill to the jobs you actually do.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a hammer drill on wood?

Yes, but switch to drill-only mode and use a wood bit. Hammer mode adds a pounding action that is meant for masonry and can damage softer materials.

Why does my bit stop going deeper in concrete?

The bit may be dull, clogged with dust or stuck on hard stone. Pull it out to clear the hole, ease off the pressure, and replace the bit if its carbide tip looks worn.

Do I need to push hard on the drill?

No. Firm, steady pressure is enough. Pushing harder can stall the motor, overheat the bit and make the drill harder to control.

Is it safe to use a long extension cord?

Only if it is rated for the drill's current draw and for the conditions. A thin or damaged cord can overheat, so use a heavier cord and keep the run as short as you can.

How do I stop dust from getting everywhere?

Hold a vacuum nozzle near the hole while you drill, or have a helper do it. Wear a dust mask either way, since masonry dust is fine and easy to breathe in.