How to Use a Bandsaw to Cut Metal, Step by Step

To cut metal with a bandsaw, fit a bi-metal blade with enough teeth for the wall thickness, run the saw at a slow metal-cutting speed, clamp the work firmly and let the blade do the cutting with light, steady pressure. Wear eye and hearing protection, keep your hands clear of the blade path and stop the saw completely before you back out of a stuck cut. Most problems, from burned teeth to wandering cuts, trace back to a wrong blade, too much speed or a loose workpiece.

Start with safety

A bandsaw blade is a thin loop of steel moving fast, and metal adds sharp edges, hot chips and heavy pieces that can shift. Take a minute to set up safely before you switch anything on.

Unplug a corded saw or remove the battery from a cordless one before you change a blade, adjust guides or clear a jam. Never wear gloves that can snag near a moving blade on a stationary saw, and tie back long hair and loose sleeves.

Wear safety glasses or a face shield, because metal chips and broken teeth can fly.
Wear hearing protection, since cutting metal can be loud, especially on thin tube that rings.
Keep your fingers well away from the blade line, and use a push stick or clamp for short pieces.
Support long stock at both ends so it cannot swing into you or pull the blade sideways.
Deburr cut ends right away. Fresh cuts in metal are sharp enough to slice skin.

Choose the right blade for the metal

A bandsaw cuts metal only as well as its blade. For steel, stainless, aluminum and pipe, bi-metal blades with high speed steel or M42 cobalt teeth hold their edge much longer than carbon blades. Our best band saw blades for metal comparison lines up the options side by side if you are shopping.

Two things matter before anything else. The blade length must match your saw exactly, so check the manual or read the size off the old blade. The listed blades range from 27 in for compact portable saws up to 93.5 in for shop saws.

The second is teeth per inch, or TPI. Keep at least three teeth in the material at all times. Thin material needs fine teeth, and thick solid stock needs coarser teeth. Too few teeth in thin tube will catch and strip teeth off the blade.

Match TPI to what you are cutting

The table below uses the blades and notes from our comparison page. Variable-pitch blades such as 10/14 mix tooth sizes, which helps when the wall thickness changes as you cut around a tube or profile.

What you are cutting	TPI to look for	Example from our data
Thin-wall tube and sheet	18 to 24 fixed	DEWALT portable blades in 18 TPI and 24 TPI, 32-7/8 in long, 3-pack
Pipe, tube and profiles	10/14 variable	Imachinist M42, 93 in x 3/4 in, listed for thin pipe, tube and profiles
Thinnest-wall tube	14	Imachinist 93-1/2 in blade, listed for the thinnest tube
Thicker-wall tube	Coarser, such as 4/6, 5/8 or 6/10	Listed by Imachinist as suited to big tube with thick wall
Soft metals like aluminum and copper	14 raker set	POWERTEC 93-1/2 in blade, 1/2 in wide

Set the speed and prepare the saw

Metal needs slow blade speeds. The Imachinist listings suggest 100 FPM to 300 FPM (feet per minute) for ferrous metals. Running faster burns the teeth quickly, and burned teeth never cut well again. Many shop saws let you change speed by moving the belt on stepped pulleys, and some portable saws have a speed dial.

Check the blade guides and tracking next. The guides should support the blade just behind the teeth without pinching it, and the blade should run centered on the wheels. If your manual gives a tension setting, follow it, because a loose blade wanders and a blade over-tightened can break.

Cut the metal step by step

Follow this order each time and the cut will be straighter and the blade will last longer.

Mark your cut line with a scribe or marker so you can see it clearly.
Pick the blade and speed for the material, then confirm the blade is sharp and not missing teeth.
Clamp the workpiece in a vise or clamp it to the table. Never hold small metal parts by hand.
Set the guide height so it sits just above the work, which keeps as much blade supported as possible.
Start the saw and let it reach full speed before the blade touches the metal.
Feed slowly with steady, light pressure. Let the teeth cut rather than forcing the work into the blade.
On a horizontal saw, lower the arm gently and do not drop it. On a portable saw, keep the shoe firmly against the work.
Support the cut-off piece near the end of the cut so it does not pinch or twist the blade as it falls free.
Switch off and wait for the blade to stop before you remove the pieces, then deburr the edges.

Troubleshoot common problems

If the blade pinches in the cut, bring the saw to a complete stop before you back out. Pulling a moving blade backward through the kerf can strip teeth and damage the cut.

A cut that drifts off the line usually means too much feed pressure, a dull blade or loose guides. Slow down the feed first, then check the blade condition and guide settings.

If the teeth dull or burn quickly, the speed is probably too high or the TPI is too fine for the thickness. Move to a slower speed or a coarser blade. Teeth that strip in thin tube mean the opposite problem: you need more teeth in the wall.

Using a little cutting fluid or wax stick on steel can reduce heat and extend blade life, though many portable saws are used dry on thin material. Follow your saw maker's advice, and keep any liquid away from electrical parts.

A note on cutting car parts

People often use a portable band saw on automotive metal such as exhaust tube, brackets and thin-wall pipe. Those pieces are usually thin, so a fine blade such as the 18 or 24 TPI portable blades on our list suits them better than a coarse one.

Take extra care with anything on a vehicle. Disconnect the battery, keep sparks and hot chips away from fuel lines and tanks, and support the vehicle on proper stands, never a jack alone. Cut parts off the vehicle where you can, and let hot exhaust cool completely first.

Look after the blade and saw

After cutting, brush chips off the wheels, guides and table. Metal chips left in the guides wear the blade and can throw the tracking off. If you cut aluminum or other soft metals, clean off any material stuck to the teeth.

Release blade tension if the saw will sit unused for a long time, and store spare blades coiled and dry. When you replace a blade, replace it with the same length and a type that suits your usual work. If you need help choosing, see our band saw blade comparison for sizes that fit compact, portable and shop saws.

Frequently asked questions

Can I cut metal with a wood bandsaw blade?

It is not a good idea. Wood blades have coarse teeth and the saw usually runs far too fast for metal. Use a bi-metal blade made for metal and slow the blade speed.

How do I know if my blade is dull?

A dull blade needs more pressure, makes more heat and leaves a rough or drifting cut. Missing or rounded teeth are another sign. Replace it rather than forcing the cut.

Can a bandsaw cut stainless steel and aluminum?

Yes, with the right blade. Several bi-metal M42 blades on our list are described for stainless steel and aluminum, but you should run slowly and keep the feed steady. Soft metals like aluminum can also load up the teeth, so clean the blade as needed.

Does blade width matter?

Yes. The blades on our list are 1/2 in or 3/4 in wide, and your saw is built for one width. Always match the width, thickness and length your saw calls for.