How to Nail Up Crown Molding Step by Step

Before you start: tools and safety

Crown molding is installed overhead, so plan for comfort and safety before you pick up the nailer. Set up a stable step ladder or platform, and keep the area around it clear so you never have to overreach.

Wear safety glasses every time you fire a nailer, and add hearing protection if you are running an air compressor or a miter saw. If you use a pneumatic nailer, connect the air hose only after you have checked the tool, keep your fingers off the trigger while you move, and never point the nailer at anyone. Disconnect the air or remove the battery before clearing a jam.

• Finish nailer (15 or 16 gauge) and nails long enough to reach framing
• Stud finder, pencil and tape measure
• Miter saw or coping saw for the corner cuts
• Painter's tape for marking, plus wood filler and a putty knife
• Safety glasses and hearing protection

Step 1: Find the framing and mark your lines

Nails hold best when they bite into solid wood, not just drywall. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs, then mark their positions lightly on the wall just below where the molding will sit. Ceiling joists are harder to find, so check which way they run and mark where they fall along the ceiling line.

If the ceiling joists run parallel to the wall, there may be no framing right at the edge of the ceiling. In that case, the top edge of the crown may need blocking or construction adhesive, or you can nail the upper edge only where solid wood exists. Check the situation before you cut anything.

Next, mark the molding position. Crown sits at an angle, so measure how far it reaches down the wall and out along the ceiling, then draw a light guide line on both surfaces. A guide line keeps long runs straight even if the ceiling is not perfectly level.

Step 2: Cut and test fit each piece

Cut your pieces slightly long, then trim to fit. Inside corners are commonly coped or mitered, and outside corners are mitered. Hold each piece in place before you nail to check that the joints close and the molding lies flat against both the wall and the ceiling.

Start on a wall where both ends are inside corners, since the first piece is the easiest to fit. Test fit every piece in the room before you start nailing, so you can spot problems while changes are still simple.

Step 3: Where to shoot nails in crown molding

Crown has two edges that touch the room: the top edge against the ceiling and the bottom edge against the wall. You want nails in both, driven into framing behind the drywall.

Place the nail through the thicker, lower part of the profile near the bottom edge so it goes into the wall stud. Place the second nail near the top edge, aimed at the ceiling joist or blocking. Angle the nails slightly toward each other so they grip the wood instead of running parallel to the surface.

• Hold the piece against your guide lines and have a helper support long runs.
• Fire one nail near each end first to lock the piece in place.
• Nail at each stud and joist you marked, using a pair of nails (one high, one low).
• Check that the nose of the tool rests flat on the molding before each shot.
• Set the depth so nail heads sit just below the surface, not deep enough to tear the wood.
• Keep your free hand well clear of the nail path.

Step 4: Handle corners and joints

Corners are where crown molding gets tricky. Nailing too close to a mitered end can split the wood, so drill a small pilot hole or keep nails a bit back from the tip. If a joint looks slightly open, a thin bead of wood glue on the cut faces helps close it before you nail.

An angled magazine helps here. It lets the nose of the nailer fit into the tight spot where the molding meets the wall and ceiling. Straight nailers still work, but you will need more care in corners. For more on this, see our best nailer for crown molding comparison.

Choosing a nailer for crown

Crown needs nails that pass through the molding and drywall and still reach framing. The nailers on our comparison page take nails up to 2-1/2 in, which covers most crown profiles. A 15 gauge nail is thicker and holds heavy crown well, while 16 gauge leaves smaller holes and suits lighter crown. We do not recommend 18 gauge brads for large crown, because they may not hold.

Weight matters because you hold the tool overhead for long stretches. Here is how three of the listed options compare on published specs.

You can see the full list of picks and specs on our crown molding nailer comparison.

Step 5: Fill and finish

After the molding is up, fill each nail hole with wood filler, let it dry, and sand lightly. Fill small gaps along the ceiling and wall edges with paintable caulk, then paint the molding as you wish.

Do a final check along each wall to make sure no nail heads stand proud and no pieces have shifted. If a nail missed framing and the molding feels loose at that spot, drive another nail a short distance away where you hit wood.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use an 18 gauge brad nailer for crown molding?

For small, light profiles it may be enough, but brads are thin and may not hold large crown. A 15 or 16 gauge finish nailer is the safer choice.

Do I have to hit a stud with every nail?

Aim for framing with each nail. Drywall alone will not hold crown well over time, so a nail that misses should be replaced with one that finds wood nearby.

Should I use a compressor or a cordless nailer?

Pneumatic nailers need a compressor and hose but are lighter in the specs we list. Cordless nailers move freely between rooms but weigh more and need batteries or fuel cells.

Can I use glue as well as nails?

Yes. A thin bead of wood glue on mitered joints can help them stay closed, and nails hold the molding in place while the glue sets.