How to Fit Cabinet Hinges on Cabinet Doors and Frames
For concealed hinges, attach the hinge to the door first, then clip or screw the matching mounting plate to the cabinet frame. Mark and drill the cup holes carefully, check your overlay, and adjust the door once it is hanging. Surface mount hinges follow a similar order, but both leaves screw to the outside of the door and frame.
Door or frame first?
Most installers fit the hinge to the door first. The cup hole is the part that needs the most care, and it is easier to drill on a door lying flat on a bench than on one standing in a cabinet. Once the hinges sit in the door, you position the mounting plates on the frame and join the two.
There is one exception worth knowing. If you are replacing old hinges and the new ones use the same hole spacing, you can often reuse the existing holes and plates, so no marking is needed. In that case you simply swap the hinge on the door and the plate on the frame, one at a time, so you never lose your reference point.
Before you begin, check the overlay, which is how far the door covers the frame. Our best cabinet hinges page explains why a wrong overlay leaves gaps or stops the door from shutting, and it is much cheaper to find that out before drilling.
Know which hinge you have
How you fit a hinge depends on its type. Concealed hinges sit in a round drilled cup in the back of the door and hide when it is closed. Surface mount hinges screw onto the outside faces and need no cup. Corner cabinet hinges are a special case, so follow their own instructions.
The hinge listings we compare give the numbers that matter for fitting. Use them to match your hinge to the holes you already have.
| Hinge type | Where it mounts | Numbers to match |
|---|---|---|
| Concealed, 35 mm cup | Cup in door, plate on frame | 35 mm cup, 45 mm screw hole spacing on two models we list |
| Concealed, 30 mm cup | Cup in door, plate on frame | 30 mm cup, 48 mm screw hole spacing on one kit we list |
| Concealed, full overlay | Cup in door, plate on frame | 32 mm screw spacing on several full overlay models |
| Surface mount | Screws on door face and frame face | 1/2 inch overlay on the DecoBasics model we list |
Tools and safety
Wear eye protection whenever you drill, because chips can fly out of a large cup bit. Clamp the door so it cannot spin, and keep your free hand away from the bit. Cup holes are shallow, so stop well before the front face. Cup depth on the Ravinte and Chibery listings is about 11.5 to 11.6 mm, so check your own hinge and set the stop to match.
If you are removing doors from a cabinet that holds heavy items or sits high up, empty it first. Use a stable step stool, never a chair, and ask a helper to hold the door while you take out the last screw.
- Tape measure, pencil and a combination square
- Drill/driver and a bit sized to your hinge cup (35 mm on most models we list)
- Depth stop or a strip of tape on the bit
- Screwdriver for final adjustments
- Clamps and a scrap board to protect the door
- Safety glasses, and a dust mask when drilling into board
Fitting concealed hinges step by step
Using a pilot hole for each screw reduces the risk of splitting the board, especially near the edge. Do not overtighten, because stripped holes in particle board are hard to repair.
- Lay the door face down on a soft surface. Measure along the hinge-side edge and mark the hinge positions. Many people place them a few inches in from the top and bottom, but follow your hinge instructions.
- Mark the cup center. The hinge instructions give the distance from the door edge to the cup center, so use that figure rather than guessing.
- Drill the cup hole with the depth stop set. Drill straight, slowly, and clear chips as you go.
- Press the hinge into the cup, square it against the door edge, and drive in the screws. Fit the dowels or screws that came in the pack.
- Hold the door against the frame and mark where each mounting plate sits. Keep the plate level with the hinge and at the right distance from the frame edge.
- Screw the plates to the frame, then clip or fasten the hinges onto them.
- Close the door and check the gap all around.
How to fit hinges without a jig
A jig is helpful for many doors, but you can do the job without one. The trick is to measure every mark from one reference edge, the hinge-side edge, so every hole lines up.
First, make a simple paper or card template from the first door, or from an old door if you are replacing hinges. Mark the cup center and the screw holes on it, then tape it to each new door. Second, draw a line parallel to the hinge-side edge at the cup-center distance from your hinge instructions, and cross it at the hinge heights. Where the lines meet is your drill point.
Use a center punch or a small nail to make a dent so the bit does not wander. Test on scrap board first to check the depth, and then do the real door. If your doors are all the same size, make the first one perfect and copy it for the rest.
The weak point without a jig is the screw holes beside the cup. Use the hinge itself as a guide: seat it in the cup, check it is square, and mark the screw holes through it before drilling pilot holes.
Fitting surface mount hinges
Surface mount hinges, like the 1/2 inch overlay DecoBasics model on our list, skip the cup entirely. Hold the hinge against the closed door and frame, mark the screw holes, drill small pilot holes and screw each leaf in place.
Mount all hinges on one door at the same height, and use a level or a straightedge along the hinge-side edge so the door does not hang crooked. The listing also notes screws sized for use with power tools, but drive them gently at the end so you do not strip the hole.
Adjusting the door and fixing common problems
Many concealed hinges have adjustment screws. Some listings describe 3-way adjustment (up and down, left and right, in and out) and the KONIGEEHRE model lists 6-way adjustment. Turn the screws a little at a time and recheck the gaps.
If a door sags, raise it on the height screw. If it rubs the neighboring door, move it sideways. If it will not stay shut or sits proud of the frame, adjust the depth screw. Soft close hinges also have a damper, and some can be tuned, so check the instructions.
When a door still will not hang right, the usual causes are a wrong overlay, cup holes drilled off center, or plates that are not level. Our best cabinet hinges page lists overlay, cup size and screw spacing for each product, which helps you pick a hinge that matches your doors before you drill.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a special drill bit for the cup?
Yes. Concealed hinges need a bit that matches the cup size, usually 35 mm on most models we compare. A Forstner bit gives a clean flat-bottomed hole.
Can I reuse the old screw holes?
Often yes, if the new hinge has the same cup size and screw spacing. If the holes are stripped, fill them with wood glue and a dowel or toothpicks, let it dry, and drill new pilot holes.
How many hinges does a door need?
Two is common for a small, light door. Taller or heavier doors may need three. Check your hinge maker's guidance for door size and weight limits.
Why does my door not close flush after fitting?
Check the overlay first, then the plate height and depth. Small errors can usually be fixed with the adjustment screws.
DecoBasics M2Best overall
KONIGEEHRE hinge6-way adjustable soft close
DecoBasics S6D02-012HSoft close in bulk