How to Drill into Concrete and Brick with a Drill
Yes, you can drill into brick with a regular drill if you use a masonry bit and go slowly, but concrete really calls for a hammer drill with a carbide-tipped masonry bit. Mark the spot, start slowly, apply steady pressure, and clear dust from the hole often. Wear eye, ear and dust protection, and check for hidden wires and pipes first.
Greenworks DD345
DEWALT DCD777D1Best overall
BLACK+DECKER BLD782D1Can a regular drill handle concrete and brick?
A regular drill only spins the bit. That works in wood and metal because the bit cuts away material. Concrete and hard brick are different: they are crushed and ground away, which needs a bit made for masonry and, ideally, a hammering action.
Soft brick and old mortar joints can often be drilled with a regular drill and a masonry bit. Expect it to be slow, and let the drill rest to avoid overheating the bit. Dense brick and concrete will stall a regular drill, burn the bit tip, or leave you with a shallow, wobbly hole.
Check the drill's own limits before you try. For example, the AVID POWER CD316-20 listing says it is not suitable for concrete or masonry walls. Read the manual or listing for your drill and follow it.
Hammer drill or regular drill: what is the difference?
A hammer drill adds a rapid forward-and-back pulse while the bit rotates. That pulse chips the masonry away, so the bit does not have to grind through it by spinning alone. Most hammer drills let you switch the hammer action off for wood and metal.
Our best drill page includes one hammer drill: the DEWALT DCD806B. It is a brushless 1/2 in model with two speed ranges (0-650 and 0-2,000 rpm) and 14 clutch settings, sold as a tool only, so you need to have a compatible battery and charger already. It weighs 3.49 lb.
The other drills on that page are listed as drill/drivers, not hammer drills. They suit wood, drywall, plastic and light metal work. If you drill into concrete more than once or twice, a hammer drill is the safer choice.
| Material | Best tool | Bit type | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Poured concrete | Hammer drill | Carbide-tipped masonry bit | Use hammer mode and low speed |
| Concrete block | Hammer drill or regular drill | Masonry bit | Hollow cores can make the bit grab or wander |
| Dense or modern brick | Hammer drill | Masonry bit | Slow and steady, clear dust often |
| Soft or old brick | Regular drill can work | Masonry bit | Avoid hammer mode if the brick crumbles |
| Mortar joint | Regular drill or hammer drill | Masonry bit | Easier to drill, but weaker for heavy loads |
What you need before you start
Gather everything first so you are not pausing mid-hole with a hot bit and a dusty wall.
- A drill suited to masonry, ideally a hammer drill with a 1/2 in chuck for larger bits
- Carbide-tipped masonry bits sized to your anchor or screw
- A smaller pilot bit if you plan to drill a large hole
- A pencil, masking tape and a tape measure
- A vacuum, brush or hand pump to clear dust
- Wall plugs or masonry anchors that match the hole size
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask rated for fine dust
How to drill into concrete step by step
Work through these steps in order. Rushing is the usual cause of damaged bits and crooked holes.
- Check for hidden hazards. Use a stud and cable detector, and look at where wires and pipes are likely to run. Never drill near suspected electrical or gas lines.
- Mark the spot with a pencil. Put a piece of masking tape over the mark to help stop the bit from skating.
- Mark the depth on the bit with tape. Make the hole slightly deeper than the anchor so dust has room to settle.
- Fit the masonry bit and tighten the chuck firmly. Switch on hammer mode if you have it.
- Start at low speed with light pressure so the bit seats. Once it bites, increase speed a little.
- Hold the drill straight and push with steady, firm pressure. Let the hammering do the work instead of leaning your whole weight on it.
- Pull the bit out every so often while it spins to clear dust, and let it cool if it gets hot.
- Stop at your tape mark. Clean out the hole with a vacuum, brush or pump, then insert the anchor.
Tips for drilling brick
Aim for the center of a brick when possible. Drilling in the mortar joint is easier, but it is weaker and can crumble. Hold a heavy load in the brick itself.
Start with hammer mode off if the brick is old or soft, because the pulsing can crack it. Switch it on only if the bit is not making progress. Keep your holes away from edges and corners, where brick tends to chip.
If you need a larger hole, drill a smaller pilot hole first and step up in size. This keeps the bit from wandering and reduces strain on the motor.
Cordless drills tire out with long masonry jobs. When you compare options on our best drill page, check battery energy (the kits there range from 30 Wh to 40 Wh) and weight, since you will be holding the drill against a wall for a while.
Safety notes
Concrete and brick dust can irritate your eyes, nose and lungs. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask, and avoid sweeping dry dust into the air. A vacuum is better than a broom.
Hammer drills are loud and can kick back if the bit jams. Wear hearing protection, keep a firm grip with both hands where you can, and brace your stance. The DEWALT DCD806B listing describes an anti-rotation system that shuts the tool down on excessive twisting motion, but you should still expect the drill to jerk if the bit binds.
If you work on a ladder, make sure it is stable, and avoid drilling overhead without a good stance. Unplug or remove the battery before changing bits. If a bit hits metal, such as rebar, stop immediately and move over rather than forcing it.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my bit stop making progress in concrete?
The tip may be dull or overheated, or you may have hit a stone or rebar. Pull the bit out, check it, and try a fresh bit or a slightly different spot.
Should I use a wood or metal bit in brick?
No. Wood and metal bits dull and overheat quickly in masonry. Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit.
Do I need to use hammer mode for every masonry hole?
Not always. Use it for dense brick and concrete. Turn it off for soft brick, tile or when the material starts to crack.
How deep should the hole be?
Slightly deeper than the length of the anchor, so dust that stays in the hole does not stop the anchor from seating.