How to Clean Knee Pads and Whether They Can Go in the Washer

Check the label before you wash anything

Start with the care tag or the maker's instructions. If the pad has a label that says machine washable, follow it exactly. If there is no label, treat the pad as hand wash only.

The reason is construction. Work pads are made of several materials glued, stitched or riveted together. Heat, long spins and harsh detergent can break down adhesives, flatten foam and warp plastic.

Also take a quick look at the pad itself. If the stitching is loose, the gel is leaking or the foam is crumbling, cleaning will not fix it. That pad is due for replacement.

Which pads can go in the washer?

Here is a simple way to sort your pads. The right method depends on what the pad is made of, not on what it is used for.

Heavy work pads, like those with a hard shell cap and gel and foam padding, are the poorest candidates for a machine. A hard cap can bang around the drum and the straps can snag other items. For a sense of how bulky these can be, the REXBETI REX011 lists a weight of 1.71 lb, and a pad that heavy can throw the load off balance.

How to hand wash knee pads

Hand washing works for nearly every style, and it is the safest choice when you are unsure. You only need a sink or bucket, mild detergent, a soft brush and a towel.

• Knock off dry dirt, dust and debris outdoors or over a trash can.
• Fill a sink or bucket with lukewarm water and add a small amount of mild detergent.
• Submerge the pads and press them gently so the water works through the padding.
• Scrub the cap, straps and any dirty creases with a soft brush or cloth.
• Let them soak for 10 to 15 minutes if they smell or are heavily soiled.
• Rinse with clean water until no suds remain, pressing the padding gently.
• Squeeze out water with your hands or roll the pad in a towel. Do not wring or twist.

If you do use a washing machine

Only do this with soft pads when the label allows it. Fasten all hook-and-loop straps first so they do not snag on other items or the pads themselves. Put each pad in a mesh laundry bag or a pillowcase tied shut.

Choose a gentle cycle with cold or lukewarm water and a mild detergent. Skip bleach and fabric softener, because both can damage elastic, foam and neoprene. Use a low spin speed, or no spin, to protect the padding.

Wash the pads on their own or with a few light items. Heavy loads like jeans or towels can crush the padding and wear down the seams.

Drying: why the dryer is a bad idea

Do not put knee pads in a dryer. Heat can melt or warp plastic caps, shrink neoprene, weaken adhesives and harden foam. Tumbling can also damage hinges and straps.

Air dry instead. Lay the pads flat or hang them somewhere with good airflow, out of direct sun and away from heaters. Open the straps and turn the pad so air reaches the inside of the padding.

Drying time varies. Thin, ventilated pads may feel dry in several hours, while thick gel and foam can take a day or longer to dry all the way through. Press on the padding. If it feels cool or damp, give it more time.

Never store pads while damp. Trapped moisture leads to odor and mildew, and it can break down foam from the inside. A pad with ventilation holes, such as the Sellstrom S96111 that lists breathable foam, tends to release moisture more easily, but it still needs a full dry.

Cleaning volleyball and other sports pads

Volleyball pads are usually soft, low-profile sleeves with a thin foam layer. They are often the ones that tolerate a gentle machine cycle, but check the tag first. Turn them inside out, close any closures and use a mesh bag.

Sports pads pick up sweat, so odor is the main complaint. After play, hang them to air out instead of leaving them in a gym bag. A short soak in cool water with a little white vinegar, followed by a rinse, can help with smell. Test on a small hidden spot first, since not every fabric reacts the same way.

For floor dust or small marks, a damp cloth is often enough between full washes. Regular quick wipe-downs mean you wash less often, which is easier on the materials.

Keep pads cleaner and longer lasting

Wipe the cap and straps after dirty jobs, especially after concrete, drywall dust or wet ground. Grit trapped between the cap and padding wears the materials faster. Rinse off any chemicals right away, and avoid solvents on plastic or foam.

If you use pads daily, rotate between two pairs so one can dry fully. When you shop for a replacement, our best knee pads page lists cap type, padding, straps and weight, so you can pick a build that suits your cleaning habits.

Cleaning also helps you inspect. While you scrub, check straps, stitching and the cap. If a strap no longer holds or the shell is cracked, compare options on our knee pad comparison before the old pair lets you down on the job.

Safety note: a pad that has lost its cushion, or one that slips because the straps are worn out, will not protect you well on hard or rough ground. Replace it rather than relying on it.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use bleach on knee pads?

It is best to avoid it. Bleach can weaken fabric, straps and adhesives and may discolor the pad. Mild detergent and warm water handle most dirt.

How often should I wash my knee pads?

Wash them when they look dirty or start to smell. Wipe them down after messy jobs and do a full wash when sweat, grime or odor builds up.

Can I speed up drying with a hair dryer or heater?

No. Direct heat can warp plastic and harden foam. Use a fan or a spot with steady airflow instead, and give the pads extra time.

How do I get rid of a lingering smell?

Wash the pads, then soak them briefly in cool water with a little white vinegar and rinse well. Dry them completely in open air before storing.

Should I wash the hard shell too?

Yes, wipe it with a damp cloth and mild soap. Check the underside, where dirt collects, and make sure it dries before you put the pads away.