How to Clean Gutters With Gutter Guards From the Ground

Know what kind of guard you have

The right method depends on the guard design. A guard sits over the gutter opening to keep leaves out while letting water in, but each style collects debris in its own way. Look at the edge of your roof and identify yours before you pick a tool.

Most homes have one of the styles below. If you cannot tell from the ground, a photo taken with a zoom lens can help.

• Mesh or screen guards: leaves and seeds rest on the surface, and fine grit can pack into the holes.
• Reverse curve guards: water follows a curved hood into the gutter, while leaves slide off. Pine needles and cobwebs can catch in the slot.
• Foam or brush inserts: these sit inside the gutter. Debris collects on top and sometimes needs to be lifted out.
• Perforated or solid covers: these have small openings that clog with shingle grit and seed pods.

Pick a tool that fits your gutter height

From the ground, you have two basic choices. A water wand attaches to a garden hose and uses a curved head to spray along the gutter. A scoop, rake and brush kit works dry, by hand, on the surface of the guards.

Reach matters more than most buyers expect. Measure the height of your gutter edge, then add the extra distance you need to hold the pole at an angle. Our best gutter cleaning tools from the ground page puts the published specs for several options on one sheet. The table below uses figures from that page.

Wands that spray are usually the better match for guards, because water can reach the gutter channel underneath. Dry brushes and rakes are good for the top surface only.

Step-by-step: cleaning from the ground

Work on a dry or mildly damp day with no wind. Wind blows spray and debris back at you, and wet leaves are heavier and slipperier on the lawn.

Follow these steps in order. Doing the dry work first keeps you from turning loose leaves into a packed mat.

• Walk the house and look for sagging sections, loose guards, overflowing corners and plants growing from the gutter.
• Clear the ground below the gutters and move anything breakable, such as potted plants.
• Use a brush or rake head to sweep leaves, seed pods and pine needles off the top of the guards. Pull toward you and away from the house.
• Attach the wand to a standard garden hose and turn the water on at the faucet first. If your wand has a shutoff valve, you can control the flow at the handle.
• Aim the spray along the gutter, from the far end toward the downspout. A rotating head helps you angle the water into corners and under the guard edge.
• Flush each downspout until the water runs clear. If water backs up, the clog is likely at the elbow or the bottom.
• Take a last look at each section. Water should stay inside the gutter and run to the downspout without pooling.

Tips for stubborn debris

Fine grit from shingles is the most common problem. It forms a gritty paste on top of mesh and inside perforated covers. A gentle, steady spray usually loosens it. Hold the wand a few inches away, not directly against the guard.

Keep the water pressure modest. The POOPLE TG-06 lists a maximum of 85 PSI and is not made for pressure washers or high-pressure systems. A standard garden hose is the right source for wands like this. High pressure can also bend lightweight guards or force water behind the fascia.

If a section stays clogged, wet debris may be packed below the guard. A scoop kit can pull some out from the edge, but you may need to lift the guard from a ladder or call a pro. Do not force a pole under a guard that is fastened tightly, as you can bend it or pop it loose.

Cobwebs and sticky seed pods tend to cling to brush heads. Rinse the brush on the ground between sections so you do not smear it back along the guard.

Safety before you start

Cleaning from the ground removes the ladder risk, but it adds a few of its own. A long metal pole is the main one. Aluminum conducts electricity, so check for power lines, service drops and meter connections overhead before you extend any pole. Stay well clear of them, and never swing a pole toward a line.

Wear safety glasses. Debris and water can fall straight down toward your face when you work under the gutter. Gloves and closed-toe shoes with good grip are also a good idea.

Wet grass and lawn debris are slippery. Plant your feet before you extend the pole, and keep both hands on it. Long poles flex at full length, so work in short sections rather than reaching at the limit of the pole.

Do not use the tool in storms or lightning. Keep kids and pets away from the area while you work.

How often to clean and when to upgrade

There is no single schedule that suits every house. Trees close to the roof, heavy seed or needle drop and shallow roof pitch all mean more frequent cleaning. A good habit is to check the guards in late fall and again in spring, and after any big storm.

If your guards clog every time you clean, they may not suit your trees. Pine needles, for example, often work through some mesh styles. Our best gutter guards page compares published specs so you can see which designs may fit your situation better.

Between full cleanings, a quick sweep with a dry brush from the ground can keep the surface clear and make the next flush faster.

Frequently asked questions

Can I clean under gutter guards without removing them?

Often, yes. A hose-fed wand can spray water through or around many guards. If debris is packed tight under a fastened guard, you may need to lift it.

Is a scoop kit or a water wand better for guards?

Wands reach the gutter channel under the guard. Scoop kits are fine for dry surface debris, so some homeowners use both.

Should I use a pressure washer?

No. Stick with a garden hose. Some wands, such as the POOPLE TG-06, state they are not compatible with pressure washers.

What if water still overflows after cleaning?

Check the downspout for a clog, look for sagging sections, and make sure the gutter slopes toward the downspout.