How to Clean Dual Action Polisher Pads
Rinse the pad with warm water, work in a mild cleaner such as a diluted all-purpose cleaner or a pad cleaning solution, squeeze it out until the water runs clear, then dry it face down in open air. Clean pads quickly after use, because dried polish is much harder to remove. Always unplug the polisher or remove the battery before you touch the pad.
Niusken PGJ-21V-REDBest overall
AOBEN AT3501C-02Gentle 1000 RPM low end
cotaros CO-PGJEight-speed cordlessWhy pad cleaning matters
A polishing pad soaks up spent polish, removed paint residue and bits of dust. As that builds up, the pad gets stiff and sticky, spreads product unevenly and can leave marks on the paint you are trying to perfect.
Dirty pads also run hotter and lose cushioning. Cleaning them is the cheapest way to keep a kit working well, and it means each pad lasts for many more sessions.
What you need
You do not need special gear. Most of this is already in a garage or kitchen.
- A clean bucket and warm water
- A mild cleaner, such as a diluted all-purpose cleaner, a microfiber detergent or a dedicated pad cleaner
- A soft pad brush or a stiff nylon brush for stubborn spots
- Clean microfiber towels for blotting
- Nitrile gloves, since some cleaners dry out skin
- A drying rack or a clean mesh surface that lets air reach the pad
Quick cleaning while you polish
Most of the cleaning that matters happens during the job. After each panel or two, stop the machine and wipe the face of the pad with a clean microfiber towel. A pad brush run across the face lifts caked polish and fluffs the fibers.
Some people also run the pad briefly against a towel or a brush while it spins at a low speed. If you try this, keep the pad face pointed away from you and from the car, and wear eye protection. Spinning pads can fling spots of polish.
Swap to a fresh pad when the face stays sticky or loaded after wiping. Kits with plenty of pads make this easy. For example, the Niusken kit on our ranking lists 18 included pieces, and the AOBEN lists 6 foam pads plus 1 wool pad, so you can rotate pads instead of pushing a dirty one.
Deep cleaning after the job
Do this soon after you finish. Fresh residue comes out easily, while dried residue can need a longer soak.
- Disconnect power first. Unplug a corded polisher or remove the battery from a cordless one, and remove the pad from the backing plate.
- Tap the pad on a hard surface or brush it to knock off dry dust.
- Fill a bucket about half to three quarters full with warm water and add a measured amount of mild cleaner.
- Place the pad in the bucket and press it up and down to push the solution through the foam or fibers. Let it soak for a few minutes if it is heavily loaded.
- Work the face gently with a soft brush, moving in one direction. Avoid harsh scrubbing, which can tear foam.
- Rinse under clean running water and squeeze, do not twist, until the water runs clear. Repeat if it still looks cloudy.
- Blot with a clean towel to remove extra water.
Cleaning by pad type
Pad materials respond a little differently, so adjust your method. Our kit data shows that many sets mix several types. The Niusken kit, for instance, lists flat and wave sponge pads, wool pads, microfiber bonnets and non-woven bonnets.
| Pad type | Cleaning method | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Foam (flat or wave) | Soak, press, brush gently, rinse until clear | Tearing from hard scrubbing or twisting |
| Wool | Soak, shake out, comb fibers with a brush | Matted fibers if left to dry loaded |
| Microfiber | Machine wash or hand wash with microfiber detergent | Fabric softener, which clogs the fibers |
| Non-woven bonnet | Soak and rinse, brush lightly | Rough brushing that damages the surface |
Drying and storing pads
Never leave pads sitting in the bucket or in a damp pile. Place each one face down on a rack or a clean towel so air can move around it, and let it dry fully. This can take a day or more for thick foam.
Skip direct heat such as a hot dryer or a radiator. Heat can warp foam and damage the hook backing. Once dry, store pads in a clean sealed bag or bin, kept apart by type, so dust does not settle on them.
Keep pads you used for coarse work separate from those you use for the final finish. This avoids carrying leftover grit to delicate paint.
When to replace a pad
Cleaning cannot save every pad. Replace it if the foam is torn or crumbling, the hook backing no longer grips the plate, or the face stays hard after washing. A pad that does not sit flat can make the polisher vibrate and give uneven results.
Also match the pad to your machine. Common backing plate sizes are 5 in and 6 in, and our best dual action polisher page notes that 6 in is the largest size it lists. If you are still choosing a tool, see our best dual action polisher comparison for pad sizes and included pads. New users may prefer our beginner dual action polisher picks, and our best polisher page covers other types of polishers.
A final safety note: never get water into the motor vents or battery. Clean only the pad, and keep the tool dry and disconnected until the next job.
Frequently asked questions
Can I put polishing pads in a washing machine?
Microfiber bonnets often can go in a washer with microfiber detergent and no softener. Foam and wool pads are safer washed by hand, since a machine can tear them.
How often should I clean my pads?
Wipe them between panels and wash them after each polishing session. Do not store them with polish still in them.
Can I use dish soap?
A small amount of mild soap can work, but rinse very well. Leftover soap can make the pad foam up and leave a film on the next job.
Why is my pad still stiff after cleaning?
Dried polish may still be deep inside. Soak it longer in warm cleaner and press it again. If it stays hard, replace it.
Should I clean the backing plate too?
Yes. Wipe it with a damp towel and make sure the hook surface is clean and dry so new pads grip evenly.