Can You Use Masonry Drill Bits on Wood, Metal or Tile?

The short answer for each material

A masonry bit has a hard carbide tip brazed onto a steel body. The tip is shaped to crush and chip hard, brittle material, not to slice thin curls of wood or metal. That one design fact explains most of the results below.

Here is how the three materials compare at a glance.

Using a masonry bit on wood

Yes, it will make a hole in wood. It just will not make a good one. The carbide tip scrapes and tears the fibers instead of shearing them, so you get ragged edges and a lot of friction. That friction can leave burn marks and a smoking hole, especially in hardwood.

Wide flutes help clear sawdust, but masonry flutes are designed for fine dust, not long wood chips. The chips pack in and heat builds up. If you must use one, back the bit out often, keep the speed low and clamp a scrap board behind the workpiece to limit tear-out on the exit side.

Some makers list wood among the surfaces for their sets. The DYRECELVE 12-piece set, for example, names wood in its suitable materials alongside brick, concrete, ceramic and glass. Treat that as a sign the bit will cut, not as a sign it is the best tool for the job. A brad-point or standard twist bit leaves a cleaner hole and costs you less effort.

Using a masonry bit on tile

Tile is where masonry bits are most useful outside concrete. Several sets on our best masonry drill bits page list tile among their materials, including the TGFTGF, DKIBBITH and TITGGI sets. The DKIBBITH and TITGGI sets list tile, ceramic and glass, and both use tungsten carbide tips on a 3-flat shank.

Glazed ceramic wall tile is usually manageable. Dense porcelain and glass are harder, and a standard masonry tip can skid, chip the glaze or take a long time. For those, a spear-point tile and glass bit or a diamond-tipped bit is the safer pick, with a little water to keep it cool.

Always read the shank notes. The DKIBBITH listing says its shank is not suitable for impact drills, and the TITGGI set is listed as not hammer drill compatible. Hammer action cracks tile, so turn it off even if your bit allows it. If you are still choosing a drill for this kind of work, see our best drill comparison.

• Mark the spot with a pencil cross, then cover it with masking tape so the tip does not wander.
• Start with a small bit, such as the 0.125 in size found in several 10 and 12 piece sets, then step up.
• Use low speed and light pressure. Let the bit do the cutting.
• Pause often so the bit and tile can cool, and add a few drops of water on hard surfaces.
• Slow down just before you break through the back of the tile.

Using a masonry bit on metal

This is the combination to avoid. A masonry tip is blunt compared with a metal-cutting bit. It does not form chips, so it rubs against the metal and heats up. The carbide is hard but brittle, so thin sheet can grab and tear, and the tip can chip.

The result is usually a dimple, a lot of heat and a dull bit that now performs worse in brick too. Even if you get through thin aluminum, the hole will be rough and the bit will pay for it.

For steel and other metals, use a bit designed for the job. Cobalt bits keep their hardness at high temperature, which is why we cover them on our best cobalt drill bits page. If your task is grinding or shaping metal rather than drilling a clean round hole, a rotary tool is the right category, and our best die grinder bits for metal page compares options.

Use a center punch to start the hole, clamp the work, add cutting oil and drill at a speed suited to the metal. Harder metals need slower speeds.

Check the shank and the drill before you start

Even when the material is right, the bit has to match the drill. SDS-Plus shanks lock into rotary hammers and are built for impact. Hex and 3-flat round shanks go in standard drill chucks. A 3-flat set made for chuck drills, like the DYRECELVE and DKIBBITH sets, should not go into an SDS tool.

Bit size matters too. Among the sets that publish diameters, ranges run from 0.125 in to 0.75 in, and the longest bit listed is 6 in. For tile, small sizes in the 0.125 to 0.5 in range cover most wall anchors and fixtures.

Safety notes

Drilling throws off dust and fragments, so protect yourself first.

• Wear safety glasses. Tile chips and metal shavings can fly.
• Wear a dust mask when drilling tile, masonry or wood. Silica dust from masonry is harmful to breathe.
• Use hearing protection with a hammer drill or rotary hammer.
• Clamp small workpieces. A bit that grabs can spin the piece out of your hand.
• Check behind walls for wires and pipes before drilling, and unplug corded drills when changing bits.
• Hot bits and hot metal can burn. Let them cool before handling.

When to buy the right bit instead

If you only need one or two holes in tile, a masonry bit you already own is a fair stand-in. If tile, wood or metal work is regular, a dedicated bit is cheaper in the long run than a worn-out masonry bit and a ruined workpiece.

Keep masonry bits for masonry, and match the rest to the material. That keeps each bit sharp for the job it was built to do.

Frequently asked questions

Can a concrete drill bit and a masonry drill bit be used interchangeably?

In most cases yes. Both names usually describe a carbide-tipped bit for brick, concrete and stone. Check the shank type and whether the maker allows hammer action.

Will a masonry bit damage my drill if I use it on wood?

No, the drill is fine. The bit just cuts poorly and may overheat, so the hole and the bit suffer, not the tool.

Should I turn on hammer mode to drill tile?

No. Hammer action can crack tile. Use regular rotary mode at low speed, and check that your bit is rated for the drill you are using.

Can I sharpen a masonry bit that went dull on metal?

Not practically at home. The tip is carbide and needs a diamond wheel. Replacing the bit is usually simpler.